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Reply by therealSteveN

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Posted on Resaw frustration

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therealSteveN

4318 posts in 1136 days


#1 posted 11-05-2018 05:05 AM


The issue to me is going to be as follows –
I have a ~2001 Delta 14 inch saw with the 6 inch riser block, running 1/2 inch wide 3 tpi 105 inch blades.
I have not changed to Carter guides, but do use “Cool BLocks” to guide the blade, and the old style thrust bearing mounted 90 degrees to the blade.

First thing I would look to is a sort of featherboard to keep the bottom tucked in – - I have a magnetic one. Challenge is always that you are watching the top edge being cut, but keeping the bottom tight to the fence is difficult, especially cutting for 2-3 feet…suspec the “blown out” section in your pic is at the bottom.

Thrust bearing spacing – WHen you are Pushing”... are you inducing deflection
which goes hand in hand with Blade Tension

Sharpness of the blade
Finally
Cutting speed. You are cutting through and moving a lot of chips…something like 1/2 per second…even through by feel the blade will cut much faster – - the cut will be rough, and the blade will want to barrel.

I would try cutting thicker first – get a 6 inch wide board that is say 1/2 inch thick – and try to Split it down the middle.

work your way down to cutting 1/8 strips. They will need surface prep anyway, .like drum sanding at that thickness… you can t really run 3/32 through a planer to get to 1/16.

- DrDirt

YES

Tall fence to give solid support to the left of the blade. If you are resawing 12” have at least a 10” tall fence. Make that fence square, straight, flat, and true. Something at right angles so you can firmly clamp it to your table.

Then YES again, a featherboard to keep the board from drifting off the blade. Those mag switch suckers are worth every penny. Slap em anywhere, and turn that dial. Frozen in place.

Something I am not sure if anyone said, and I do it, but usually never think to say it….....

You can do all of these things, and still get squat if that board is rough, and isn’t dead flat on the side facing the fence. Trying to run a cupped, twisted, crappy board against the fence will get you 2 crappy boards. You MUST face joint, or plane that reference face/edge on every pass. No jointer or planer, you will need to buy S4S stock, or have a buddy process it for you.

-- Think safe, be safe


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