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Reply by therealSteveN

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Posted on Scrollsawing Brass?

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therealSteveN

3927 posts in 1088 days


#1 posted 09-19-2018 10:06 PM



I sandwiched the 1/8” brass between 1/8” birch plywood and used a #5 mg pegas blade and it worked out great.

- Woodmaster1

Yes, I should have mentioned that. The blades even if they “can easily” cut metal will often find entry a bit difficult, and sometimes, especially if the shape is rounded will choose to glance off the metal rather than engage and start right off sawing. The reason your wooden sandwich worked so well is it allowed the blade to engage the wood first, and the wood is just strong enough to steer the blade to where you want it to go, without being so strong it breaks the blade.

If I see that cut coming up I simply make the sammich with the 2 outer pieces of wood, and my brass/aluminum shape slightly smaller than the wood, and I attach it it with DABS of plain Jane PVA, or Elmers glue. The glue does work slow, so you will need to allow 1 hour to a day for it to set, but seeing that it is “mostly” water that evaps off where there are gaps and your hold is just tiny pinpoints. After sawing those pinpoints are easy to break free with a little prying. Sometimes you break the thin wood, and sometimes a speck of wood will remain on the metal.

Usually the wood is just a bit of junk anyhow, and a very quick light sanding will return your metal to it’s initial shape, with no further work to do. If you look around the tips, and hints sections of Titebond, and Elmers websites you will find this mentioned. For long term bonding, no it isn’t good, but something light to hold your sammich together, it works fine.

A lot cheaper than any special sprays, Epoxies, or whatnot, plus in all likelihood you have some in the shop already.

-- Think safe, be safe


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