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Advice on table saw purchase... do I buy this?

2K views 22 replies 16 participants last post by  ruger 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
New here, looking for advice. I'm a hobbyist trying to put together a shop in the garage (new house so I finally have a garage). Looking for a table saw so I can expand my projects beyond whatever I can put together from lumber from HD. I'd basically settled on the Delta 36-725 so my budget is right around $600. But I have been still perusing CL because… why not. Anyways, guy is selling his Dads old Unisaw. He knows absolutely nothing about it except it has an accu-miter, unifence and table extension. No mobile base but I figure I could always build one. He is asking $750. Fairly certain the guy had it in his house, not at a shop, since seller inherited it with the house. From the single pic, it looks well cared for. I imagine it's not an ancient model as it has the red and green on/off switch. Should I jump on this or would I be happier with the new 36-725? If I can figure out how to post the pic of it, I will. Thanks for any advice you can give me.

edit: after scouring internet for pics to compare, I believe the unisaw is a 34-806 or 802, or something similar.
 
#3 ·
Having personally done woodworking with both a contractors saw and now currently,a cabinet saw I much prefer the cabinet saw. It is more accurate, more solid, has a higher HP motor so it runs on 240 but cuts through 8/4 hard maple like its butter. I'd go and see the Delta as well as investigate whether it comes with a true riving knife (I don't know for that model). If it doesn't come with one, I'd see if an aftermarket one exists. A riving knife on a table saw is a safety feature I simply wouldn't go without.
 
#4 ·
Having personally done woodworking with both a contractors saw and now currently,a cabinet saw I much prefer the cabinet saw. It is more accurate, more solid, has a higher HP motor so it runs on 240 but cuts through 8/4 hard maple like its butter. I d go and see the Delta as well as investigate whether it comes with a true riving knife (I don t know for that model). If it doesn t come with one, I d see if an aftermarket one exists. A riving knife on a table saw is a safety feature I simply wouldn t go without.

- Ottacat
Yes a lack of riving knife is one of my chief concerns. I'm not sure if this saw has one, but I'm doubtful. And then at $200 for an aftermarket sharkguard, we are going way over budget.

Fwiw, from scouring the internet and looking at pics, I suspect it might be model#34-806 or something similar.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am a long time woodworker (60 years) and would want an old (but good) Delta Unisaw over any big box store's contractor's saw - and probably any saw they sell. Don't let this one get away!!! Go see it and check it over. If it is all there, it runs, and is not damaged - GRAB IT! You won't regret it. And if the table has a slight rust problem, discount the price a little bit and still take it. rust can easily be remedied and polished up.

And don't worry about the riving knife. It is nice to have and it does help prevent kickback. You will be able to find a replacement with some more looking. You can even easily make one.
 
#7 ·
I have the Delta 36-725 and have been happy with it, but my one concern is if the motor ever takes a crap you're out of luck because it's a special motor just for the 36-725 and a replacement cost more than the whole saw. At least with the Delta Unisaw you don't have that problem. I bought the 36-725 because I was trying to save a buck but wish I had gone ahead and bit the bullet and bought a better saw without an integrated motor.
 
#8 ·
I would inquire about the model number on the older Unisaw and do some googling. If it's a 220V 2hp+ saw, then you'd definitely want that over the newer Delta. If you don't have 220v in the shop, you can get it run for about $300-400 and is a considerable upgrade to your garage. The difference between a larger contractor saw and a cabinet saw is night and day.
 
#9 ·
I would inquire about the model number on the older Unisaw and do some googling. If it s a 220V 2hp+ saw, then you d definitely want that over the newer Delta. If you don t have 220v in the shop, you can get it run for about $300-400 and is a considerable upgrade to your garage. The difference between a larger contractor saw and a cabinet saw is night and day.

- mathguy1981
Seller can t find a model#, but I suspect it might be a 34-806. It is 220v, don't know if it is single or 3 phase. As long as it's single phase, running a 220 line is within my capabilities.
 
#10 ·
The 36-725 is a decent saw, but it's not near the stability, power, and reliability of the Unisaw. $750 isn't a bad deal, but it's not a spectacular one either, especially since the saw doesn't come with a lot of extras. Around here at least, it's fairly common to see older Unisaws in varying states of repair for $500-$1000.

As for a riving knife, you can add a Sharkguard with riving knife (the ARK version) for about $200. I have one on my Unisaw and love it.
 
#11 ·
I would look hard at the unisaw. I was in the same spot as you trying to stay on a $600 budget.
Wound up with a rigid r4512 back in 2013. $400 in upgrades and it's a good saw. Sure wish I had bought that unisaw that was on CL back then that needed an overhaul. It too was a little over my budget. But turns out would have been cheaper and better in the long run. Grab the unisaw today, shark guard in a couple months.
Long run you will be glad you did
 
#17 ·
You made a good purchase. The 1.5hp will be plenty of motor for everything except the hardest woods, then just slow down your feed rate and make sure you blade is plenty sharp. I just got a Grr-ripper pushblock and I'm pretty jazzed with it, could help with the lack of a riving knife re: kickback.
 
#19 ·
Don't worry too much about model numbers - a Unisaw is a Unisaw and parts will for the most part interchange between decades. That machine was made sometime around 1980, but you can date it with the serial number once you get it. It should be a right tilt machine, so you can get a disappearing splitter for it (they will not work on a left tilt machine).

Cheers,
Brad
 
#20 ·
Don t worry too much about model numbers - a Unisaw is a Unisaw … ...

It should be a right tilt machine, so you can get a disappearing splitter for it (they will not work on a left tilt machine).
Cheers, Brad
- MrUnix
I have seen those splitters on AMZN a few times and wondered if it would be a worthwhile addition to my 1999 model Unisaw. I never have had a splitter, so I don't really know what improvement I would experience with one installed.

...
 
#21 ·
+1 on the unisaw. I bought a 34-450 back in early June, 220V. I had to add the 220v to the garage, love the saw. In my review found out that is a 1968 model. Runs great

- rolltide35
I bought my 34-450 this year and did a refurbishment. What a great saw. I added the disappearing slitter and very super cool tools fence.

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#22 ·
I have a 1.5 hp motor in my saw that I'd put my money against any 1.5 horse motor out there today. It'll rip 8/4 walnut and maple like a champ. 3/4 stock will not slow it down even feeding it dangerously.

No question. Play around with a cabinet saw and you'll see why they're recommended. Beef.

I have a unifence. It's pretty good. I slightly prefer a bies but don't feel like putting it back on.

A cut a piece off the blade guard to act as a low profile splittle right after the blade. Works well.

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