Reply by lwllms

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Posted on What is the best Grinding Stone?

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555 posts in 3790 days

#1 posted 09-09-2012 01:26 PM

I like single point dressers but others prefer diamonds mounted on a rectangular faced dresser. I just buy Grizzly’s 3/4 carat dresser for about $11. Don’t use a lot of force pushing the dresser into the wheel. Diamonds are like coal and will burn. If you force things, the diamond goes away pretty quickly.

I’d turn the wheel the opposite direction you’re going. Make yourself some templates to set the tool rest at the grinding angle. I use 25º for most chisels and plane irons. My templates are about 3/4” wide, 6” long and the same thickness as the tool I’m grinding with a 25º angle on the end. The templates need to be the same thickness as the tool being ground because you’re grinding on the tangent of the wheel and the angle will change with each tool’s thickness. Use the template to set the tool rest so that the wheel contacts the 25º bevel in the center of the template bevel.

If you’re fixing a problem with the tool, first establish the location of the new cutting edge by grinding at 90º to the flat face of the tool. Do this before grinding on the bevel. After the new cutting edge location is established, you can start working on the bevel. Grind the bevel to the point you have a hair-line of the 90º flat left at the cutting edge, don’t grind all the way to the new cutting edge. Hone that flat away at about 30º.

Don’t force the tool into the wheel, especially as the steel starts getting thin at your new edge location. A properly dressed wheel has a huge number of very sharp little cutting edges on its face. These actually remove material pretty quickly with only light contact of the tool on the wheel but you need to keep fresh abrasive exposed on the wheel so dress when you feel the cut slowing down or more heat being generated.

After you have your tool initially tuned, your grinding will be just to keep the honed bevel at the edge small. Keeping this small will make honing easy and fast. You also need to keep you stones and the flat face of the tool uniformly flat. This allows doing all the work on the flat face of the tool with the coarsest stone you use to correct any wear to the edge on the flat face and subsequent stones are used only to remove the abrasive signatures of previous stones. Remember, your stones are abrasives too and these also need to be kept dressed.

If you keep your honed bevels small and maintain flat on both stones and your tools, honing shouldn’t take more than a minute for most tools.

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