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Cooling and soundproofing a Florida garage shop

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2K views 13 replies 11 participants last post by  JRsgarage 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have a 2 1/2 car garage with a partial attic over garage…7 foot standing area where pull down stairs access attic.
This attic has a floor and inadequate insulation. I am wondering is it worth the effort to empty the attic, rip put the flooring and significantly increase the insulation….it is 100+ up here in the summer

I know a split ac is the right solution but it is a bit pricey.

Any thoughts on how to soundproof the doors
 
#2 ·
It's definitely worth it to insulate the attic properly. You don't necessarily have to rip up the floor. You can just lay fiberglass batts down on top of the floor. It's not maximally efficient when done that way, but it certainly works. You'll want to insulate around the ladder too. They have those upside down styrofoam tubs that go over the ladder that work okay, and they're not too expensive.
 
#4 ·
If it is completely sealed top and bottom, have an insulation contractor come and blow insulation in. They do it through a series of tiny holes in the drywall- easy to repair.

A mini-split will pay for itself in a few years in FL.

Roxul makes a sound deafening insulation product.
 
#5 ·
Unless you want to store stuff in the attic space, I agree with the suggestions to just blow some insulation in there. You can do it yourself. I know Home Depot will rent you the blower for free when you buy X amount of insulation. It's a two man job and at least for a garage space, you'll spend more time going back and forth to HD than blowing.

Properly insulating should always be the first step in making a space more comfortable. Keeps heat out in summer and keeps it in during the winter (not an issue in Florida).

Having said that, every area has different issues, so make sure whatever you do is appropriate for where you live. Mostly I'm thinking of moisture issues.

I have a mini-split in my garage converted to a shop, it's wonderful to have a shop at exactly the temperature I want. They are super efficient, but they are a bit spendy. Keep in mind, a mini-split is best at just running and keeping a space conditioned. If your garage is still mostly a garage with cars going in and out, you might want something larger so you can cool the space down more quickly.

The main thing about sound proofing is sealing cracks. Sounds moves most easily through air, so any crack is a big deal. For the door from the garage into your house, make sure it is weather stripped and the threshold and sweep seal. If you're trying to keep the noise down for the neighbors, again, good weather seals on the big garage doors.

Mass and sound dampening are next. The door to the house should already be a solid, fire rated door. If not, replace it with one. In the case of your large garage door, insulating it will help a lot. You can glue or otherwise attach foam board to it. Be careful not to add to much weight, else you'll need to increase the pull of the garage door spring(s).

There are of course very elaborate ways to sound proof. The main one being room within a room, but I'm sure that's more than you are interested in.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Personally, I would insulate my a$$ in a distance kind of way from Florida…it's just too ridiculous hot. But, lacking that I would blow in the attic because that is a much more filling, covering, better working insulation for attic space. Most houses could benefit greatly by blowing in another 6-8 inches in their attic no matter what they have up there now. Next I would go to Lowe's and get their big GE 220v {single phase} window unit for around $500. I just put one in my 30×30 shop and it takes her down quick and doesn't run much. I gets ridiculous here like Florida in the dead middle of summer too. Don't worry, I ain't stayin' here either!!!!
 
#8 ·
I just bought a vornado shop fan and it works pretty well cooling me off, specially if I just aim it where I'm working. It's in the 90's and humid as hell here in Houston and it makes it so I can actually work in the shop. Throw on a moisture wicking shirt and I can be out there all day. Before the fan I'd be dripping and about to pass out after an hour.
 
#9 ·
I am a Floridian and I pulled up what little flooring I had up in my attic (strictly for storage) to lay down batt insulation and let an insulation company blow in the rest of the attic that was unfinished. I've always had the motto from Mike Holmes to do it right the first time. It was a lot of work, but I feel like it was well worth it (mind you I did this towards the end of winter, so it wasn't quite blistering at the time). Once the attic was complete, the mini split went in and now enjoy a very comfortable 79 degrees and my A/C bill barely changed. Garage door was already insulated a while back so I'm sure that makes a difference as well.
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
Guys, didn't he say there was adequate insulation in attic? Don't understand why you want add more.

That being said, as a fellow Floridian, I can tell you I've seen attic temps >140°. If you add more, go with R30. Also, if you have a gable end over your garage, a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan will help a lot.

I suggest looking at a large window AC you will need a 240V circuit.

You can insulate the garage door with rigid foam board. I would use screws to attach rather than tape.
 
#13 ·
Guys, didn t he say there was adequate insulation in attic? Don t understand why you want add more.

That being said, as a fellow Floridian, I can tell you I ve seen attic temps >140°. If you add more, go with R30. Also, if you have a gable end over your garage, a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan will help a lot.

I suggest looking at a large window AC you will need a 240V circuit.

You can insulate the garage door with rigid foam board. I would use screws to attach rather than tape.

- rwe2156
He said he had "inadequate" insulation.
 
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