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Electric Hand Planer

2K views 15 replies 14 participants last post by  rwe2156 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I believe a electric hand planer is next on my "to buy" list. My reasoning is that I can quickly use it to knock down the high spots prior to running boards through my bigger Dewalt planer.
I've been looking for a while and I believe I've narrowed it down to 4.
1- porter cable 6amp $70
2- black and decker 5.2 amp $64
3- harbor freight 7.5 amp $60
4- harbor freight 5.5 amp $38
All are 2 blade and 3.25 inches wide.
I know there are probably some better ones but I currently don't think that I'll use it enough to spend over a $100 on it.
Any thought or suggestions?
And yes I do have hand planes but since I moved last fall my "work bench" is my tablesaw so it would b hard to use them
 
#3 ·
I believe a electric hand planer is next on my "to buy" list. My reasoning is that I can quickly use it to knock down the high spots prior to running boards through my bigger Dewalt planer.
What kind of wood are you working with? I've never had to do that if I get a board with unevenness, I just run it thru the planer a few times until its planed off.

I have a Bosch collecting dust somewhere. Seems to work pretty well.

I would definitely take a look at Ryobi. $80.
 
#4 ·
having the choice of directing the chips is a big plus.
I don't know if the late models have an "adjustable" chip deflector, but something to consider.
I like the idea that I can direct the chips to one side or the other.
I have had this old vintage Skil hand plane for 40 years and it has a simple deflector.

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#6 ·
I bought a makita for a specific job and it was fabulous. I haven't used it since then, but I will have no hesitancy if the need arises. It can produce a mountain of chips.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the advice so far. I'll take a look at the Ryobi.
I should hav said that I'm mostly working with maple, ash and white/red oak at this point. Some of the boards are bowed a good bit. Seems to take forever getting them flat with only the big planer. I figured the hand planer would do fast work and then use the big one at the end. I do also have hand held belt sander but that seems like it would take a while too.
I had considered just buying the cheaper HF one then seeing how much I used it. If I used it a lot and it crapped out I could go get a nicer one at that point
 
#12 ·
Back in 1999-2000, when I was restoring a huge farmhouse, I found myself needing one, so I went for the HF model at the time.
It even came in Hitachi green.
Came with an extra set of blades and a funky little do-dad that was used to align the blades when putting them in. Used it for a lot of door edging. Worked OK, save it will dig in on open planks. Be careful! Still runs well today, although I don't use it much at all.
I'd vote for the $60 Harbor Freight - looks a lot like my old HF save it is now that famous Chicago Electric maroon and black.
 
#15 ·
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I had considered just buying the cheaper HF one then seeing how much I used it. If I used it a lot and it crapped out I could go get a nicer one at that point

- JCamp
I have used this method a few times. As you said if you use it and like it you can always get a upgrade. Or if it is not what you thought it would be you still have a quick planer for odd jobs, like doors.
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
Thanks for the advice so far. I'll take a look at the Ryobi.
I should hav said that I'm mostly working with maple, ash and white/red oak at this point. Some of the boards are bowed a good bit. Seems to take forever getting them flat with only the big planer. I figured the hand planer would do fast work and then use the big one at the end. I do also have hand held belt sander but that seems like it would take a while too.
I had considered just buying the cheaper HF one then seeing how much I used it. If I used it a lot and it crapped out I could go get a nicer one at that point

- JCamp
Might be appropriate to make sure the terminology is correct.

A bow is curved along the flat length of a board.
A cup is across the width.
A warp is along the edge.

Assuming a jointer isn't an option, there are various type of jigs and sleds you can use in your planer to remove the cup.
 
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