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Reply by Kelly

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Posted on Tips for Teak Needed Please

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Kelly

2541 posts in 3511 days


#1 posted 03-20-2018 04:09 PM

First, if you pressure wash, use the white tip, which is the one with a very wide spray. Anything else is for carving wood. As they say, don’t ask me how I know (P.S. My pressure washer is 4000 PSI).

Over the years, I’ve heard a lot of complaints about Thompson’s. That could be because people expect a magic bullet from a can. That is, it needs to be done every year.

Some have said Thompson’s is emulsified wax. Dunno, but, if it is, I could see why it would not be the ideal finish.

As to oils, the first big job I did with non-hardening oil was my garage doors. I made them from leavings out of a spalt pile from a local cedar mill. People commented they didn’t know I had a garage and just thought it was tightly stacked [cedar] cord wood.

The first coat of oil soaked in like it was going out of style. Wherever it soaked in, I added more and kept doing it until it wouldn’t take more. In three months of what passes for summer on the northwest Washington coast, you couldn’t tell I’d done anything.

The next year, I hit it hard with the oil again. This one lasted———three months again.

The third coat was the deal breaker, in this case. Years later, it’s still obvious it was oiled. The thing is, the oil was not evaporating. It was just wicking deeper and deeper into the wood. As such, the coats were cumulative and built on each other. Of course, they were penetrating coats, rather than surface coats, like spar varnishes and other surface coats [that have to be stripped.

A qualifier on the spar varnish an other surface coats, you have to strip them only if you don’t stay on top of them, or they otherwise crack or lift.

By the way, the reason fences and other wood surfaces look horrible in a year or three after they get a surface coat is, the finish wasn’t flexible enough to shift with the wood, as it gained and lost moisture. That is why people use spar varnishes. They are what is called long oil fnishes. They have more oil so are more flexible.

My ideal exterior finish might be a piece which has been hit with oils until it’s saturated, then sealed with a light seal coat using a long oil finish. Dunno, never been patient enough to go there.

I have taken exterior finishes and added hardening oil (tung and boiled linseed) oil to them and even added motor oil and thinner. Those seemed to work too.

I had a [non-Pasadena] little old lady who had me finish her fence. Rather than fire up the airless, I used a garden pump up, which works if the product is thinned around 15%. I explained the “aggressive early on” thing to her and she went for it. I was able to do her 100’ fence in about an hour, using the pump up. She lived in one of the cookie cutter housing development (nice houses, postage stamp lots). Hers was the best looking fence around, and the easiest to maintain.

The oil replaced lost moisture, so the fence didn’t shrink, so didn’t suffer the usual cracks and splits. Too, the oil gave the wood (cedar) a nice golden glow.

I just used motor oil. Since there are greenies lurking, I won’t say it was used, but which, even if pitch black, will still produce the golden color on sun stained wood. Of course, such oil would not be a good candidate for something you’re going to be sitting on and rubbing against.

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SIDE NOTE:

Many products say to only use so much. So do many otherwise expert painters. For example, one old boy thought I was stupid for thinning latex and letting it soak into my sixty year old shingles. He said it was wasting material. I asked him why, where did it go?

Keep in mind, these shingles where thin and dry. They were due for replacement. However, saturated with paint, then coated with more, they’ve gone another fifteen years and will go many more.

In short, the weather now has more finish between it and the old tar paper underneath the shingles and shakes.


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