Reply by Tony1212

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Posted on Gaming Table Questions, need suggestions

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462 posts in 2646 days

#1 posted 02-13-2018 02:57 PM

Lately I’ve been on a Pathfinder kick, but have done a lot of D&D gaming in the past. I’m currently hosting a campaign at my house, so I’ve also been kicking this idea around.

The pic of your design is rather small and near impossible for me to read.

1) Not sure if you need maple ply. Most of that is just a thin maple veneer over regular ol’ plywood. It won’t give you any added strength or warp resistance. Any cabinet grade plywood should work. Stay away from cheap, home store plywood. That will probably be warped sitting there on the rack. You may want to source your plywood from a hardwood lumber dealer. Baltic Birch plywood is also a favorite for jig makers as it tends to stay pretty flat.

Use maple ply for any areas that will be seen, to match the rest of the table. But for the felt covered area, you can use something cheaper. Also, if the edges of the ply is going to be seen, get some maple edge banding.

2) I’m not sure what that would be called either. I think you will need to experiment with angles. Build the table and make a stand for the tablet (there are plenty of options here in lumberjocks – just do a search). That way you can figure out the best position and angle for you without permanently cutting into the tabletop. At that point, I would build a separate tray to hold the tablet, cut a rectangle into the plywood and drop the tray into the tabletop. That would probably look the nicest and be easiest to build.

3) I guess this would depend on your routing skills. Routing would probably be the best option, as long as you can make it look nice. Is 1/2” deep enough? Maybe I just get excited when I get into combat, but my dice tend to bounce a lot. Also, if you intend to use the table for anything other than gaming, you will have these recesses permanently in the table top.

4) Will you be laying the TV on the playing surface or will it be recessed in? 3/4” plywood would be plenty strong enough to hold a 20lb TV. But recessing it will probably require additional supports under the table. However, I tend to over-engineer everything. So put me in the “more-supports-the-better” camp. But if the supports are not going to be seen, I’d use the cheap, warped plywood from the home store. Or solid pine, or poplar, or off-cuts from the other parts of your table.

As soon as you start talking plywood, I assume you are not making heirloom quality furniture that you’d expect to be treasured in a century. Go as cheap as you can for the non-visible stuff. No one is going to climb under your table to see if the plywood you use for support has voids in it or not.

-- Tony, SW Chicago Suburbs

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