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Reply by Derek Cohen

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Posted on Sharpening system advice...final tweak to my setup?

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Derek Cohen

477 posts in 4570 days


#1 posted 12-30-2017 01:29 PM

I usually sharpen by hitting the diamond plates and 8k side of the stone. I only use the grizzly for big reshaping jobs and my carving chisels . I basically don’t use the 1k/6k any more. I started with that when I got a set of chisels, but don’t use it too much, and it is too narrow for most plane blades.

The main issue I have is that the water stone is kind of a pain.

Hi Brian

I would use a differently sharpening strategy. It would be interesting if you tried it, and then reported back.

Firstly, hollow grind the bevel with your wet grinder to the edge of the blade.

Now you have a choice of freehanding the blade on flat on the hollow (which is what I do) or using a honing guide to create a small secondary bevel. If you freehand, the angle for the hollow grind should be the final bevel angle.

Which ever method you prefer, you will not need more that 3 strokes with the Fine diamond stone to raise a wire edge. If you ground to the very edge of the blade with the Grizzly, you could even start with the 4000 Norton.

The last step is to hone with the 8000 grit, again a few strokes are all that is needed to polish away the scratches of the 4000. Remember to polish the back of the blade with the 8000 (only). A strop (green compound on MDF) is also useful to ensure the wire is gone.

Keep the coarse DMT for flattening the Nortons. Use the Fine DMT in place of a 1000 waterstone to start. Keep the 4000/8000 Nortons. Ditch the rest.

I place an emphasis on creating a hollow grind as the foundation for all that follows.This may interest you: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/UltimateGrindingSharpeningSetUp.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

-- Buildiing furniture, and reviewing and building tools at http://www.inthewoodshop.com


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