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Can this be done without an CNC?

1K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  splintergroup 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
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Was wondering if one could join two boards with rows of long, sliding dovetails like on the photo without using a CNC? I'm looking to cut only two-three long parallel dovetails on each board. Is there a jig for a router for this? Thanks!
 

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#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
I saw it on wooden planes attaching soles to bodies. The photo is from the Internet, not mine. I'm looking for something simpler: only three rows of dovetails and they can be parallel to the longer dimension of the boards.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Cut some plywood rectangles, then cut out
rectangles inside. Assuming you want to
cut the joints symmetrically you'd position
these "windows" on a guide board in a way
that allows some lateral adjustment. Fuss
with the adjustment until you have the windows
spaced correctly so two routed parts will
match. Use as many windows as you need.

The concept is similar to those door hinge
router jigs with the 3 windows, one for each
hinge and spacer bars in between.

Use a router guide bushing for cutting the joints.

You could also make the guide board from a
single piece with cutouts on one side, but
your math and layout would have to be dead-on.

I made a box joint jig this way once. I had
an Incra fence on my table saw which made it
easy.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
Cut some plywood rectangles, then cut out
rectangles inside. Assuming you want to
cut the joints symmetrically you d position
these "windows" on a guide board in a way
that allows some lateral adjustment. Fuss
with the adjustment until you have the windows
spaced correctly so two routed parts will
match. Use as many windows as you need.

- Loren
Thanks Loren! This is definitely an option. Would this work? First, cut strips of plywood of two widths, one width-top of tails, the other-bottom of tails; then glue the wider strips onto a frame using the narrower strips as spacers; then mark the boards using this template and pre-cut rough dadoes on table saw for easier routing. It may take some tweaking to get an acceptable fit.

Or, I could adapt the "box joint on the table saw" approach for routing: using a long guiding tail carefully positioned with respect to the dovetail bit for good fit.
 
#8 ·
Depending on the strength required, you could do as Loren suggests, but to avoid the need for exact spacing you could rip off all the rectangles on the side board, install them into the top, then glue the side board back on.

This would lock in the spacing. The side board could then be removed and the tips of the rectangles shaved back to perfect depth.

A piece that wide would have great long grain glue surface to be very sturdy.
 
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