LumberJocks

Reply by JBrow

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Posted on Making your own finger-jointed stock?

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JBrow

1368 posts in 1248 days


#1 posted 08-03-2017 01:57 PM

William Shelley,

Another method for end jointing cut offs would be a finger joint at the table saw with a dado blade. Once the jig is setup, every finger and socket should perfect fit together. This method would be slower than with a finger jointing router bit, but since time is available, the dado blade/table saw method would save some money. A scraf joint could also be used and could be potentially the fastest and easiest method. Here are some images of various styles of scraf joints, but a long simple bevel would be the easiest.

https://www.google.com/search?q=scarf+joint&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi1v9fxmLvVAhVHziYKHdZ9CLEQsAQIQw&biw=1366&bih=622

But it seems to me there are other problems with end jointed boards. The first is gluing the joints so that no glue seam telegraphs through the paint. If the joint is a tight-fitting joint and lots of glue is used, I would think that the cracks in the joint would fill in with the glue, solving this problem.

The second problem, especially with the finger joint, is ensuring the longer board is straight once the glue has set. Since the finger joint would require clamping pressure along the length of the glue-up to bring the joint together, the pieces would need to be clamped to a flat surface that would not flex. The scraf joint could probably be glued with only downward clamping pressure on a flat ridgid surface.

The third problem is that the cutoffs may not all be same thickness. Even if they are all of the same thickness, some post-glue-up milling would probably be needed. The end result would be a single longer board that is not as thick as the individual boards.


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