Reply by Rich

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Posted on Building interior doors

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5001 posts in 1148 days

#1 posted 05-09-2017 04:49 PM

There was a post recently referring to an article where glue joint strengths were tested. The half lap won, so you’re making the right decision there. Also, from a visual standpoint, you can have the stiles go full length, and cut out for the joint on the backside. That way, looking at the front of the door, you will see a full stile. The back side will show rails going across the full width, but like you said, they don’t care what the back looks like.

If I were doing the panels with T&G, I’d just float them in there. Don’t butt it all in too tight, so there’s room for expansion. If you’re worried about rattling, a dab of glue in the center of the top and bottom of the boards will lock them in place and allow for movement of individual boards. You could also use a brad nail on the back side.

I forgot to mention this… you asked about hinges. A standard interior door is 1-3/8” thick. Hinges for them are sized for that thickness, and the edge of the hinge will be set back approximately 1/4” from the face of the door. Basically, you want the door sitting flush with the door frame, so that’s the critical detail for determining where to mount them.

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