Reply by Byron

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Posted on Designing a Sushi Tray - wood movement problems?

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92 posts in 3721 days

#1 posted 11-20-2011 09:46 AM

The general rule I go by is 3 1/2 to 4 inches for a edge glued surface. I try to always stay below the 3.5 mark but anything larger will blow apart, maybe not right away, but if you want it to last definitely let them “float”. A solution to this is to use a dovetailed slot and just leave a little bit of room in the grove on either edge. Then glue the top piece around the dovetail, but by far not the easiest way, Id suggest screws or other floating hardware, or reconsidering the design.

Another thing is to only glue part of the bottom strips so the rest can move, and you could always reenforce this area with a joint of some kind, even some dowels. If you do this at the center the outsides would barely move.

And the top part of the tray would be more then strong enough if the glue surfaces are true

-- Byron Conn, Woodworking/Furniture Design at Rochester Institute of Technology,

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