Reply by luthierwnc

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Posted on Type 2 Sargent frog replacement question

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150 posts in 2662 days

#1 posted 02-18-2017 03:15 AM

For an extra $25 you have a known-good component.

But that’s one of the last things you do. First, the bottom has to be flat. The plane I started this thread about came in perfect shape but a hundred years of life can warp them if they were even flat to begin with. I get the blue 60-grit belts for my small (6×48) belt sander and abuse them fairly close. Then I cut some finer grit belts and stretch them taught across my out-feed table to finish the job. It’s tedious. Wear a particle mask.

A flat blade needs a flat frog bed. What matters more is that the frog seats so the bed is perpendicular to the sides. I spent an hour fiddling with a frog learning that. It seated solidly but one side was slightly longer then the other. Five minutes with a file solved that. I won’t share what I said at the moment of discovery.

The front of the mouth should be dead square, level across and crisp. Wait till you get the blade to do that. There is a Rob Cosman video on filing them. The mouth is the most important chip-breaker for close, fine shavings. They can get pretty chewed-up over time. That might be why these new-fangled replacement blades are more important now. The leading edge of the mouth keeps getting filed further away so the frog gets advanced farther from the support casting on the other side. That’s where a thin blade needs the most bolstering and it’s not there. It flexes and you keep sharpening it thinking that will help.

A plane in rough (but salvageable) shape can take a long time to fettle. It’s worth it. Good luck, sh

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