Reply by Cooler

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Posted on Tabletop racks a bit - how to fix?

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299 posts in 1444 days

#1 posted 08-25-2016 06:20 PM

You can do some corner bracing, which will have the same effect as the wider apron, without adding a lot of visual mass in the middle of the table.

You need to spread the forces further down the leg, to counteract the leverage of that 6 foot table. Imagine a 6 foot piece of pipe on the end of a crescent wrench. Doesn t take much force to rack it.

- DrDirt

That would work. Faster though would be to mount cast iron shelf brackets in each corner. sells them and they look fairly attractive.

Well I took the table apart and I went and picked up some 1×6 pieces to use as the apron. Figured would be an easy change before we paint the base.

So now I will have a 1×6 apron all the way around. I will also scab a second 10” piece of 1×6 onto each corner to provide additional bracing. I am still using pocket screws to connect the aprons as that is what I have available to be at this time. Hopefully changing out the apron will stop the racking that was occurring so that I do not need to add a bottom stretcher on as that will take away from the look of the table.

Will post an update and pictures when all done tomorrow.

- bucketheadmn

Can you add dowels? They are not as good as tenons but require only rudimentary equipment. And alternating dowels and pocket screws will add quite a bit to the strength of the part.

I know from doing demo on some kitchen cabinets that two pocket screws on a 3” wide board failed easily when I racked the board side to side. Well glued dowels will be much stronger.

All you really need are dowel centers and something to keep the drill square.

Rockler shows it in their catalog:

And Sears (and probably Lowes, Menards and Home Depot) carry General’s version for about $5.00 a set.

If you use pre-made dowel pins the glue relief will be built into the dowel and you won’t have a hydraulic issue to deal with.

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