Reply by JBrow

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Posted on '84 Powermatic 66 - rust through - seeking advice

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1368 posts in 1487 days

#1 posted 08-22-2016 02:52 AM


Since the saw runs smoothly it is probably worth the effort, although if historically accurate restoration is your goal, I am sure the project will run into some money.

One option is to contact Powermatic. Perhaps they can furnish a new cabinet and any other parts that may be required. While they may not have a PM66 cabinet, perhaps a cabinet for one of their other saws would work. My PM66 from the late nineties has a pretty nice fence, but the mitre gauge is nothing to write home about, though I am not sure you need one. No provision was made for a riving knife on my saw, but it came with a splitter and blade guard as one assembly. A couple of years ago I contacted Powermatic concerning a riving knife, but they offered none for the PM66 at that time. Your best source for closely matching paint is from Powermatic.

Echoing Pogo930’s idea, scrape and sand away the rust and patch the holes as best you can and then paint over the repairs. It would not look very pretty, but since the corners look in pretty good shape and most of the cabinet looks ok (from what I can see), I would think the cabinet will continue to support the weight of the saw and remain a stable platform. If you want the repaired cabinet to look almost like new, perhaps a good auto body shop could make the repairs for you.

Since it appears that only the lower area of the cabinet is damage, the lower area of cabinet could be cut off. The remaining portion of the cabinet could then be fastened to a platform of your own construction. If the cabinet is taken to a welding or metal shop, they could probably make fairly straight cuts and perhaps even weld on some eye loops on the lower portion of the cabinet, making it easier to attach to a wooden base.

Another option that could be considered is to build your own cabinet with construction lumber and plywood. This low cost option could consist of a frame with four posts and rails connecting the legs to carry the weight. Some lower stretchers would add some stability. The frame could then be skinned with plywood for stability and dust collection. However some careful design work would be required. Cut outs for the bevel crank, the elevation mechanism, and for the blade guard on the outfeed side of the cabinet are needed. Leaving plenty of access to the motor would be required for maintenance, to grease bearings and replace the belt. Basically duplicating the existing cabinet using wood and using the existing cabinet to guide the design might work out.

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