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Reply by LoyalAppleGeek

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Posted on Table Saw for DIY

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LoyalAppleGeek

160 posts in 1462 days


#1 posted 08-07-2016 11:21 PM



Sharpening and honing your own blades can be a very risky venture. Do it wrong, and you can ruin a perfectly good blade. The Youtube video mentioned above about honing the face of the blade works well in that particular scenario, but if the tooth face isn t 90° to the sharpening stone, you ll change the hook angle, and likely make the blade perform worse. Proceed with caution! (professional sharping typically costs ~$15-$20, which may not make sense for a $20-$30 blade, but makes a lot of sense for a $60-$130 blade)

Very good tip, thank you for filling that in as I neglected to mention that the tooth must be parallel with the table.


Portable saws are great for portability, but they give up a lot in comparison to a full size saw with a belt drive induction motor. Many times it s just not feasible to go with a stationary saw on wheels, but if there s anyway possible to make it work, you ll end up with a more robust long term saw.

Good point, but for me personally, a difference in price margin of several hundred dollars drastically minimizes my desire for said extra features, especially if the issue of shipping cost must be taken into account. Shipping cost for an 80 pound Jobsite saw is an arm and a leg cheaper than a 400+ pound stationary saw. In fact, it ships free in the US. I do work daily, over two thirds cut on the tabs as, and never regret spending small for a small space. There’s absolutely a place for stationary saws, just not in my shop.


Compare the landing zone area in front of the blade, which is the area that allows you to get a board settled and flush with the table surface before the board contacts the blade.

Another good point, but in a small area you may not have space for an outfield table, in which case the additional support on the back may be advantageous. While of course that’s a small thing to call an advantage, again it’s taking into account the issue of space. As for the issue of alignment, I’ve ripped 2×6 foot sheet goods on the Kobalt with no problem and nobody holding the other side, just keep a steady hand. It’s easier with a deeper landing zone, but not necessarily an absolute must. Again taking into about the cost.

One caveat regarding the saw in the image: Nothing is square out of the box. If you don’t already, get a small framing square or speed square along with it to assist in the setup. In about 3 hours I had it working beautifully.


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