Reply by OSU55

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Posted on New Handplane setup

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2658 posts in 2841 days

#1 posted 07-29-2016 11:55 PM

I guess I need to consider what I ll be using a Handplane for the most. When I think of it I ll be using them to remove machining marks. As many of you have suggested a no.4 seems to be the best match.

This the leads to a whole new series of questions. The options seem a bit overwhelming. There s a no.4, no.4-1/2, low angle option, a bevel up option.

- Spitfire1

Removing machining marks pretty much puts you in the smoother category – 4 or 4-1/2. You can never go wrong with a 4, it can be used for a lot of stuff – see Paul Sellers. A #80 cabinet scraper can do a lot with figured grain, and can be the fallback when a Bailey plane just can’t keep from tearing out. A lot depends on you – do you like to refurb planes, or spend $? Personally, I just can’t bring myself to spend $ on premium planes that aren’t that much better than a refurb Bailey – and they don’t need thicker blades or chipbreakers if tuned and sharpened properly. Yes, the adjustments on the high $ planes are tighter etc., but the result on the wood isn’t much different.

Low angle and bevel up smoothing planes are the same thing. I have a Veritas, and yes, it’s about as good as it gets for a smoother. The Custom planes weren’t available when I bought it. I have a Mujingfang woodie from Japan Woodworker with a 2” 63° HSS blade for about $80 total that does wonderful work, but I had to learn how to tune it, adjust it, and sharpen the HSS to get a razor edge. Here's my take on getting started with hand planes. I think it’s better to take it a bit slow and easy, especially from a $ standpoint and learn. But, if a person has the $ to burn, jump right in.

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