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Reply by Kelly

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Posted on Boiled Linseed Oil and Polyurethane

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Kelly

3154 posts in 3825 days


#1 posted 07-29-2016 12:56 AM

In the end, poly and hardening oils play well together. You can even add BLO to oil based poly to bend it more toward being a long oil finish, which is what is used on surfaces that see a lot of abuse by weather. It isn’t as hard, but it flexes more, so can tolerate the expansion and contraction of the wood better.

As others say, let the BLO harden completely, then start tossing poly on.

Popping the grain with Minwax, Watco and similar products is just the equivalent of putting a coat of highly thinned poly [with a lot of advertising behind it] on. More specifically, it’s applying polymerized linseed oil with resins added, which is what poly is.

While you do have to wipe hardening oils off to avoid orange peel, wiping it on and off just as soon as you do is wasteful. People do this with mineral oil on butcher block, for example, and it drives me nuts. Let it soak as much as possible (with a cutting board, just walk away and forget it, letting it soak in), then get rid of the excess.


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