Reply by knotscott

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Posted on I just picked up a new (used) table saw

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8332 posts in 3883 days

#1 posted 02-27-2016 04:16 PM

Thin kerf Freud 24 tooth. Big issue is proper set up of the saw. The other BIG issue is the proper set up of the saw.

- Bill White

Ditto what Bill said. Hard to go wrong with a good 24T 3/32” thin kerf rip blade like the Freud Industrial LU87, Freud Diablo D1024X, CMT Industrial 202.024.10, Irwin Marples, or Infinity 010-124. If the wood is flat and straight, and the saw is aligned well, these blades should give a good glue ready edge.

While a good blade is important, the real key to a glue ready edge is really having a flat face and a straight reference edge to place against the fence, so it can produce a uniform linear cut that’s exactly 90° to the face along the entire length of the board. A warped or twisted board that’s not flattened and straightened first is not likely to yield a clean cut because the board will be prone to rocking and won’t follow a straight path along the fence and blade. There is no blade available that will compensate for board that isn’t prepped with a reference face and square adjacent edge. A good 40T will provide a little smoother cut surface, but the physics principles of starting with a flat straight board remain the same. Do some research on methods of flattening and squaring a board, and you’ll find that within reason, many decent blades will yield an acceptable result for glue up.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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