Cherry Dining Table

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Project by dvail12 posted 03-29-2014 04:17 PM 1649 views 0 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Big Family, big kitchen table. Curly Cherry from Western Pennsylvania. Only the top is glued, base is M&T w/cherry pegs, stretcher M&T with Tapered Mortise and contrasting walnut wedges. Fun project, and Paul Bunyan heavy.

-- Dvail12

16 comments so far

View helluvawreck's profile


32122 posts in 3717 days

#1 posted 03-29-2014 04:22 PM

Wow!. This piece is very impressive. You’ve done a fine job on this.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View DHS's profile


140 posts in 4075 days

#2 posted 03-29-2014 06:39 PM

Beautiful. Please describe how you finished it and how you got that amazing color.

-- Dave S., Bellingham, WA

View TreeBones's profile


1828 posts in 4874 days

#3 posted 03-29-2014 06:42 PM

I am a big fan of figured wood. You have provided great honor to this fine lumber.

-- Ron, Twain Harte, Ca. Portable on site Sawmill Service

View sras's profile


5566 posts in 3980 days

#4 posted 03-29-2014 06:44 PM

Great looking table – the color and grain are fantastic!

-- Steve - Impatience is Expensive

View oldrivers's profile


2287 posts in 2417 days

#5 posted 03-29-2014 06:54 PM

Big Table, (looks to seat 10 people?) it is Very impressive, Beautiful Cherry, great design and workmanship.

-- Soli Deo gloria!

View gsimon's profile


1320 posts in 2964 days

#6 posted 03-29-2014 06:57 PM

beautiful table! Looks solid for sure

-- Greg Simon

View SuburbanDon's profile


487 posts in 3845 days

#7 posted 03-29-2014 07:53 PM

Very nice job

-- --- Measure twice, mis-cut, start over, repeat ---

View oldnovice's profile


7652 posts in 4218 days

#8 posted 03-29-2014 09:12 PM

Nice job, when is dinner?
I need one that size as we have 10 people for a meal and that one looks big enough to handle that.

I like the grain pattern and the finish of the table top.

-- "It's fine in practise but it will never work in theory"

View Sawdust4Blood's profile


408 posts in 3872 days

#9 posted 03-29-2014 11:53 PM

Amazing finish… I would love to hear what you used to get the color so even while also getting the grain to pop.

-- Greg, Severn MD

View david38's profile


3518 posts in 3194 days

#10 posted 03-29-2014 11:55 PM

you do great work

View AnonymousRequest's profile


861 posts in 2400 days

#11 posted 03-30-2014 12:27 AM

Beautiful, Excellent!

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

30566 posts in 3189 days

#12 posted 03-30-2014 01:18 AM

Very beautiful work

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View lightweightladylefty's profile


3573 posts in 4563 days

#13 posted 03-30-2014 04:38 AM

Really beautiful!


-- “Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin -- Jesus is the ONLY reason for ANY season.

View BOOM_TOWN's profile


19 posts in 2677 days

#14 posted 03-30-2014 12:08 PM


View dvail12's profile


22 posts in 2822 days

#15 posted 03-31-2014 01:40 PM

The color of this table is mostly a gift of nature and bright sunlight. The finish is Mylands Danish Oil. There are easier finishes to apply. This finish is a little tricky. Applied thinly as recommended it dries quickly on a large project such as this. You can apply like French Polish, but can leave streaks if you are stingy with the oil.

I applied generously and wiped off excess as quickly as possible while moving down the table. The critical step is done between coats. I cheated the first couple of coats. I carefully unfolded 0000 steel wool pads and refolded to the size of my variable speed orbital sander. On the lowest speed this really sped up the process. The final two applications were done by hand. The finish is smooth as a baby’s, well you know. I expect the color will continue to darken as time goes by.

I think part of the Pop comes from the early preparation. Again I cheated a little. The total width is too wide for a sanding machine. So I joined two pieces and brought all to a local shop that will run through their sander for me. I then joined the third piece at my shop and flattened and trued the top with my hand jointer plane. Then an orbital sander to remove any marks left by the plane, There weren’t many but none is good. Then I sharpened and put a new burr on a hand scraper. This is what I have found makes the grain “pop”. This was a lot of work. If there is a better way I am all ears and would like recommendations from more experienced hands if you have them. The recommendations, not the hands.

My experience with large pieces and small is that flat tops like to move even if you carefully orient the grain to minimize the effects of migrating moisture. I did my best to minimize by slotting the end aprons and hand fashioning iron angle clips and screwed to the bottom of the top, three to an end. This should help prevent cupping while permitting movement.

An interesting note. I have an antique table from Bali. I believe the wood to be a variety of teak. The top is one piece of wood from a massive tree, a 41’ top. The aprons on this table are 10’ deep and a full inch thick. I suspect the thicker and wider one piece top requires a stronger opposing force. The workmanship is a bit crude by western standards, but the technology was sound. M&T’s done by hand and pegged. Lovely.

Perhaps one day I can move to Bali, live in a hut and make pieces by hand. Hope the fishing is good.

-- Dvail12

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