Cutoff sled/Crosscut sled

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Project by Mork posted 03-15-2014 09:28 PM 2873 views 13 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is the 4th cutoff sled I have made over the past 30 year. The first one didn’t turn out very well but I’ve perfected the building process over the years. The third sled has served me very well and will continue for many years to come I’m sure.

This smaller cutoff sled was build simply to demonstrate how easy it is to make a very accurate sled. I’ve watched at least 6 YouTube videos on constructing a sled and I can honestly say the way I build sleds is not only easier but much more likely to be very accurate.

Hopefully somebody will appreciate the efforts I made to communicate this process on YouTube. I’m not actor but I think it’s good enough to understand the process.


8 comments so far

View JUC's profile


116 posts in 2690 days

#1 posted 03-16-2014 06:53 PM

THANKS!! That brakes is down in an easy way to understand. Very nice sled. I would add a blade guard on the front. That is just me.

-- If no one will ever see it, all the more reason to make it right

View MistakeMagnet's profile


35 posts in 3128 days

#2 posted 03-18-2014 06:42 AM

A 4 foot sled!? Wow. Big enough to hold plywood too. That’s the biggest one I’ve seen. I like the way to glue the fence on the table saw to ensure it will be as straight as possible. I’m tempted to take the fence off of mine to do the same.

View Mork's profile


299 posts in 3575 days

#3 posted 03-20-2014 03:15 AM

I think what makes this design standout above all others is the method used for attaching the runners. Using a router table or dado blade to cut a dado in the bottom of the plywood is good insurance that they will never move. All other methods I’ve seen on the internet attach the runners by laying the runners in the miter slots of the saw and attaching the runners through the top with screws, most the time without glue! This method will work but due to the small dimension of the runners the screws don’t have much wood to grab.

Also… with a larger sled, you have to move the sled while attaching the runners to insure the spacing is correct. This movement is another opportunity for error.

One more observation. Many designs feature a contoured front and back fence. I suppose this is to reduce weight or add a little pizzazz to the cutoff sled but it has one major disadvantage. And that is attaching a stop to the fence.

If you look at the start of my video you will notice a U shaped piece of wood straddling the front fence (operator side) with a clamp on it. I can loosen this clamp and move the stop anywhere along the fence. It also allows for adding all kinds of jigs for making repetitive cuts and adding future improvement like a dial in stop with a feed screw etc.

View ddmac's profile


7 posts in 2509 days

#4 posted 03-20-2014 02:55 PM

Great video! I really like your sled.

The reason why the back fence is contoured is to allow for your hands to hold the workpiece easier. If you leave the fence high then it is harder to hold the workpiece down. But you leave the middle high to protect against the blade coming out the top of the fence.

View Mork's profile


299 posts in 3575 days

#5 posted 03-21-2014 01:16 AM

I see your point although I much prefer the fence without the contour. At about 4-3/4” tall it isn’t a difficult reach to hold the wood and there’s a good 2-1/2” remaining above the blade for strength. I can however see a safety concern without the contour. With the contour you would tend to keep your hands away from the taller area near the blade. With that said, I never get near the blade and much prefer a fence without the contour. I would say there is an optimum height for a straight fence for sure. All my 6-inch clamps have adequate depth to clamp jig or stops to the fence. I actually had a small sled with a contoured fence several years ago. It came with my current saw. The center section was about 6 inches tall and annoying. Mostly because of trying to use clamps on the fence. I actually used this cutoff sled for miters for several years but it wasn’t build very well and I finally tossed it.

View pwgphoto's profile


70 posts in 3016 days

#6 posted 03-24-2014 05:29 AM

Great video. Thanks.

-- Paul, Brooklyn Park, MD.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

10923 posts in 4852 days

#7 posted 04-16-2014 05:46 PM


Like you, I’ve seen many many videos on how to make a good CutOff / CrossCut Sled…
... after seeing one & getting enthused about it, another comes along that looks better, and on & ON it goes.

I finally made one… it works pretty good…

Then, I see YOUR video! You DID it to me AGAIN!
I feel like making ANOTHER ONE!! The way You did it!!

I think you have finally really Nailed it (no pun intended)... :)

Your way of testing Square is good too! Much easier than what I’ve been doing.
I have always taken a medium sized piece that has at least one straight edge against the fence, made a cut on right side, turned side just cut to go against the fence, cut another off right side, going all the way around. It should be perfectly square from the Last edge cut to Starting edge… if not, adjust & try again, and again, etc.

C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S !!

I’m sure I will make another one very soon…
Maybe I’ll convert the old one to a 45* sled… or something… (?) LOL

Thank you very much!

BTW, in watching & subscribing to your video, I saw a video about Sam Maloof and watched it too…
It was so wonderful… one that I had not seen before…
Sam was a wonderful guy… and a good neighbor… I miss him.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: ... My Small Gallery:

View Mork's profile


299 posts in 3575 days

#8 posted 04-17-2014 02:09 AM

Hello Joe,

I’m glad yo enjoyed the video. It was fun to make. Personally I think I became a bit more comfortable in front of the camera on my second video about the band saw circle jig… Of course a cut off box is probably a much more essential item to have in your shop.

Thanks for the complements, it means a lot.

Thanks to everyone!

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