Sliding rear dust enclosure for table saw

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Project by Mikhail posted 03-10-2014 03:32 AM 4027 views 7 times favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I wanted a flexible enclosure in the back of my 10” saw to minimize the dust escaping when running the saw with a dust collector hooked up. I ALSO (apparently) have not done enough cardboard mockups lately…sigh….

The first 4 pictures show the saw in 0, 15, 30, and the full 45 degrees the saw is capable of. The fifth pic is an early version with a very small rear plate (later exchanged for the white larger plate). The last picture shows the other 2 plates used.

The cutout in the middle top is to allow the plate to clear the trunnion rear raceway. The belt is shown in the lowest blade position but the plates allow it to be raised as well to full height.

This is made of 3 plates that slide on to the saw trunnion bars and allow me to operate the saw at any angle while maintaining an (estimated) 80-90% rear cover.

The rear most plate (in white) slides outside the table base. The middle plate (light brown) is stationary and it and the front plate sit just inside the base.

The shapes are the minimum required to maintain a maximum of cover as they move thru the full range of the saw. There is a slight brownish area at the top of the white plate where I sanded it down to fit around the table top supports when at full upright position (zero degrees)

Picture four shows the MOST opening in the middle left area of the saw base. This is due to the belt returning to this position in the 0 degree position.

I can provide dimensions or better pics if this helps anyone out.

10 comments so far

View robscastle's profile


7238 posts in 3009 days

#1 posted 03-10-2014 06:37 AM


Nice post,this is a dilemma I have been perplexed with for quite some time.

I did various methods to attempt to improve dust extraction aspects.

1. First up I enclosed the motor drive belt and gear within the flange around the saw with a big cloth bag.
This appeared to work but particle build up with in the bag and poor motor ventilation let me to removing it.
I didn’t want my motor failing prematurely.

2. I packed EPE in all the openings under the saw table and then used metal foil tape to make every thing airtight.
This produced a marginal improvement but the saw dust kept piling up.
So I kept removing it and do so up to today.

I will be keen to see if you have a workable solution there.

-- Regards Rob

View BigNate's profile


1 post in 2344 days

#2 posted 03-10-2014 07:22 AM

I did something very similar but with hard board. mine has spring loaded flaps that cover the open slots as you tilt the blade. maybe I’ll post some pictures when I get home.

View steve_in_ohio's profile


1195 posts in 2416 days

#3 posted 03-10-2014 12:06 PM

great idea, that should keep the dust down

-- steve, simple and effective

View HillbillyShooter's profile


5811 posts in 3097 days

#4 posted 03-10-2014 01:06 PM

Very creative solution to a very large problem with contractor’s model TS—nice job.

-- John C. -- "Firearms are second only to the Constitution in importance; they are the peoples' liberty's teeth." George Washington

View KnotBoard's profile


16 posts in 2359 days

#5 posted 03-10-2014 01:17 PM

I ran out of cardboard for mockups when I tried that. And wore my protractor out :o) Way to stick with it! I know what it’s like to figure out all the movements and I commend you for your design. I gave up and decided to block mine off while in the 90 degree position and take it off (held on with magnets) when doing angle cuts. 90 degree cuts are 95% of my cuts. I may have to do a revisit after seeing your design.

-- Steve

View Mikhail's profile


48 posts in 2496 days

#6 posted 03-10-2014 01:39 PM

I would be very interested in a spring loaded direction….maybe I could use that to fill that last little hole. Yes, please to pictures!

Yes, I too now have a cardboard free home…sigh. I suspect if I HAD been able to find my sheet magnet scraps, I could have saved my cardboard and most of a day. Some how in all the tests requiring my motor to be removed and then rehung I managed to knock the TS out of alignment. THAT cost me another morning to rip it down, clean (might as well if its in parts) and realign. Sigh, again.

I am still planing to enclose the motor area, and perhaps attach a enclosing belt guard. And then yes foam fill the top and fill the other openings where possible. Good points.

ALL suggestions are appreciated and will be (in all likelyhood) applied. Thank you.

I will close this project with some video showing it in operation to verify dust emissions.

View SCOTSMAN's profile


5849 posts in 4390 days

#7 posted 03-10-2014 08:42 PM

I really can feel your pain Brother with this one.I have never come across this type of saw before and am not at all impressed with the design as it appears to me from the photographs.I can see your facing a real uphill struggle to overcome the problems you face with this machine.I don’t envy your task one bit still I hope you win out have fun and keep smiling it is meant to be enjoyable at the end of the day.

I remember now that here in the UK a design of saw used to be made here in Europe whereby the whole table top was moved everytime you decided to make an angled cut. It was a disaster waiting to happen whereby heavy objects would fall of the table while you were trying to cut them at an angle.Unsafe fighting all the time against gravity ,basically another poor design. They don’t make them like that anymore and they were not cheap saws either ,usually big and heavy rip saws with a large cast iron table top.can you imagine trying to hold down the wood while cutting it with a large spinning blade and wood falling off to the left while you cut in a word madness. LOL Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Mikhail's profile


48 posts in 2496 days

#8 posted 03-10-2014 10:46 PM

Here is a scalable image:

Here an assembly series:

Here is the 4 positions again. I have foamed and taped up the TS fully at this point. Note the ACCUSQUARE attached to the blade establishing blade angle. (0, 15, 30, 45 degrees)

SCOTSMAN: This is a 1984 King 10” saw. A fairly common saw here in Canada. What you describe sounds like a fight between Snoopy and a lawn chair!

I am getting excellent suction using all the suggestions made here, as well as using a zero clearance insert.

Thanks for all the help folks. Next up is the router side of this unit.

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile


151 posts in 3248 days

#9 posted 03-12-2014 10:06 AM

Has anyone tried to build this system from Fine Wood Working magazine.

I am thinking of trying it but not using the outfeed table part. Just attach the box to the cabinet of the saw.

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

View Charlie75's profile


312 posts in 3070 days

#10 posted 03-12-2014 11:59 PM

What issue of Fine Woodworking was this in. I take that magazine but I must have missed this.

I blocked mine in the 90 degree position as another poster said he did. All most all of my cuts are 90 degree and I just take it off when I need an angle cut.

I watch this with interest to see what other ideas are out there.


-- Charlie75, Alto

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