RAS Cabinet and Torsion Box

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Project by sIKE posted 09-02-2008 05:03 AM 5749 views 6 times favorited 24 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Well it is done. I got it all together today and I am very satisfied! Well I need to get the drawers made but that is another small project later down the road.

Here is the completed Torsion Box.
Torsion Box
And here is the RAS Cabinet all put together.
RAS Cabinet 1
RAS Cabinet 2
Above is a great shot of the new and improved guard system for this saw.
RAS Cabinet 3

Follow on work:
I still need to work on tuning the saw itself up to the table then the final leveling of the cabinet.
I need to put in a T-Track in the Miter Bench to utilize a stop block for the RAS.
Dust collection needs to be worked out and the area behind the Torsion box and above the DC needs to be enclosed.
Finally I need to cut in some fillers on both sides of the cabinet. I wanted to do that last cause it will lock the cabinet into place (hopefully!)

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

24 comments so far

View tenontim's profile


2131 posts in 4794 days

#1 posted 09-02-2008 05:13 AM

Looks like a nice job. Have to ask, why do you have it jammed up in the corner of the shop? I know your miter saw is in the middle of the same wall, but I would think the RAS would be more useful located where it is. Just wondering.

View sIKE's profile


1271 posts in 4803 days

#2 posted 09-02-2008 05:24 AM

I have a total of 6’ to the right of the blade. This is there for the occasional wide but really long board that needs to be cross cut and won’t fit on either the TS or the Miter Saw. The rest of the time it will have a dado stack in and will be used for Half Laps and Dado’s and such.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View trifern's profile


8135 posts in 4816 days

#3 posted 09-02-2008 05:34 AM

Looks like a great and functional workstation. I look forward to seeing projects created from here. Thanks for sharing.

-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27249 posts in 4871 days

#4 posted 09-02-2008 12:13 PM

This looks like a great addition to your miter bench that should be nice to use when you have to crosscut or dado a long board. You did a really nice job on this.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Callum Kendall's profile

Callum Kendall

1918 posts in 4753 days

#5 posted 09-02-2008 12:38 PM

Nice work!

Thanks for the post


-- For wood working podcasts with a twist check out

View EEngineer's profile


1137 posts in 4663 days

#6 posted 09-02-2008 03:16 PM

It does look nice!

But the front corners of the RAS table stick out quite a bit. Have you considered rounding, or at least a 45 angle on those front corners? I know I would be running into those constantly!

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View LeeinEdmonton's profile


254 posts in 4631 days

#7 posted 09-02-2008 07:15 PM

I have been using an RAS for 50 years (1958 AMF DeWalt) & found the RAS was just as accurate as a CMS given to me on retirement in 1996. When I discovered the CMS was no more accurate than my RAS I stored it folded up on its mobile stand and leaning against the shop wall outta the way. That screaming motor up next to my head certainly convinced me that I didn’t need it. My RAS is mounted between two 5ft. workbenches & is used for all of my sawing(I do not own a TS) as well as for many other functions. ie: with a grindstone mounted lawn mower blades get sharpened in a matter of minutes. There simply is no way I would tuck an RAS in a corner.

-- Lee

View PurpLev's profile


8652 posts in 4698 days

#8 posted 09-02-2008 07:33 PM

awesome, congrats on the completed project… and an open door for many more projects to come ;)

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View sIKE's profile


1271 posts in 4803 days

#9 posted 09-02-2008 10:15 PM

Thanks guys! The next project is the Router Cabinet! That is the last project for the build out of the shop! Then its on to making saw dust for projects instead of the shop!

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View sIKE's profile


1271 posts in 4803 days

#10 posted 09-03-2008 01:55 AM


I think I understand where you are coming from. This is the third saw in my shop and it is rather quite in comparison to the Miter Saw. OTOH I have the least amount of experience with this saw. I got it as my father was looking to get rid of it and that was the spot that I found for it. My thinking at this time is that I will use it only occasionally to cut wider lumber. As I gain more experience with it I might reconsider placement and how I use it.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View LeeinEdmonton's profile


254 posts in 4631 days

#11 posted 09-04-2008 04:26 AM


I will say this that it would be a wise move to try to find a book authored by an expert in the safe use of an RAS. I was fortunate in that when I bought the saw new I also purchased a book written by a demonstrator for American Machine & Foundry who manufactured the saw. It was jammed with information & I’m certain that kept me out of trouble. In the meantime a couple of ripping tips:
(1) ALWAYS engage the kickback pawls.
(2) Do not rip short boards (less than 1ft. lg.
(3) If the board drifts from the fence DO NOT reach back of the saw to push the board back to the fence because if you pinch the blade you could induce a kickback & in a blink of an eye your hand could be jerked back into the blade. Course that’s also true with a table saw but worth mentioning anyhow. Take your time & learn how to use & enjoy the saw.

-- Lee

View sIKE's profile


1271 posts in 4803 days

#12 posted 09-04-2008 05:07 AM

No ripping here! Purely a cross cutting machine. Thanks for the advice especially #3! The Miter Saw like to pull things into the fence I will need to get used to the idea of the saw pushing the board away from the fence and make sure to utilize the kickback pawls.

-- //FC - Round Rock, TX - "Experience is what you get just after you need it"

View ChicoWoodnut's profile


904 posts in 4865 days

#13 posted 09-04-2008 06:24 AM

Hey Sike, The RAS does NOT pull the board away from the fence. The saw blade spins clockwise with the bottom turning away from the operator keeping the workpiece pushed down and against the fence. It DOES have a tendency to want to pull the saw toward you though (climbing) so ALWAYS keep anything you value out of the path of the saw until it comes to a COMPLETE stop and let the saw come through the work in a controlled fashion. Use sharp blades and the saw will kinda float through the work. You will be able to tell if the feed is too fast when you feel the saw start to accelerate toward you usually resulting in a stall. If that happens, turn off the saw and take a break. Don’t start working again until you calm down ;)

I have been using one for years and I think if all you do is crosscut and follow that very simple rule (keepng out of the path of the blade at ALL times) you will find it a valuable tool and will keep all of your appendages.

I have heard people recommend using the RAS in reverse by starting the cut from the outside and pushing the saw through the work to eliminate climbing. I would not recommend that as I would be concerned that this technique could lift the front of the board off the table and cause an accident. Doing it the right way will keep the work both down and against the fence.

Nice job on this bench. I wish I had enough room to make something similar.

-- Scott - Chico California

View DaveH's profile


400 posts in 4828 days

#14 posted 09-04-2008 07:18 AM

I’ve owned a RAS for over 20 years and also have a cabinet saw. I use both. I only use the RAS for cross cuts now. I’ve owned 2 craftsman RAS. The first I returned under the recall to buy my cabinet saw. I missed the convenience of the RAS and bought another.

Some tips:
Just make sure the blade you use on the RAS is designed for a RAS.

Like an Freud Avanti TK606 or Freud LU91. I run the LU91 on my RAS and can’t complain. The LU91 has a negative hook which makes it less aggressive and easier to control on a RAS.

And never have anything you care about in the path of the blade when you are making a cut. You can never tell then the blade is going to dig in and come flying at you. Especially when cutting 2×4 or larger wood on the saw.

And get in the habit of locking the motor assembly in place with the set screw when ever you walk away from the saw. I had the blade catch on the table and come flying forward once when I’ve flipped the power on. The old RAS had the power switch built into the handle of the saw motor. I much preferred that setup because I always had my hand on the saw motor when there was power to it.

-- DaveH - Boise, Idaho - “How hard can it be? It's only wood!”

View LeeinEdmonton's profile


254 posts in 4631 days

#15 posted 09-05-2008 10:57 PM

The only time a work piece will move away from the fence when using an RAS is during ripping. Re comment on Dave’s observation of switch position. As my RAS is 50 yrs old & I bought it new, never liked the switch position on the side of the arm. In later years this became dangerous for me because of hearing difficency. I still wear plugs to try to save what hearing I have. Lately(about 6 mos. ago) I noticed that I would return to the saw & the thing was still silently running from the previous cut. I have eliminated the problem by tying a light into the switch & mounting it at eye level. That put an end to shutting the saw off that I cant hear.

-- Lee

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