My ugly box joint jig

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Project by Matt posted 01-06-2014 03:39 PM 2187 views 1 time favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

So this is the box joint jig I made this weekend. I made this in preparation for a project my little sister ask me to build for her. The plans were just a hodge-podge of various designs I’ve seen here and around the web. I definitely built the fence too high and the supports that ride the tracks too long, so I will have to modify it a little.

I’m using standard circular saw blades stacked together as dado blades. This gives me a 3/8” dado. My test joint worked out pretty well. I will say that it did take some pretty good force from my deadblow mallet to get it together. I’m not sure how much glue would stay in the joint if my first test had not been a dry fit. Any advice on how to tweak it just a little would be greatly appreciated.

All in all I’m pretty pleased though.

-- Molon Labe

5 comments so far

View bigfoot11's profile


81 posts in 2561 days

#1 posted 01-06-2014 04:28 PM

You could attempt to shim the blade a few thousandths on one cut but not the other.

If you are pounding it together, it’s usually a sign of being too tight. Remember that wood swells when standard glue is applied due to the moisture. You want a nice friction fit but not to the point you can’t get it together with glue without jackhammering it together!

View a1Jim's profile


118142 posts in 4456 days

#2 posted 01-06-2014 04:34 PM

Basicly the width of the blades needs to be the same size as your spacer and the distance between the space and the blade needs to match as well. you may be able to adjust the size of the space or your spacing to get a looser fit.


View helluvawreck's profile


32122 posts in 3745 days

#3 posted 01-06-2014 04:47 PM

It will be a great addition to your shop. Congratulations.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View Matt's profile


35 posts in 2609 days

#4 posted 01-06-2014 10:35 PM

I appreciate the tips guys. From my experience with it the other day and yall’s advice, it sounds like adjusting my spacing may be the way to go. I’ll look into it as soon as I get an opportunity and get back to you.

-- Molon Labe

View 49er's profile


182 posts in 2483 days

#5 posted 01-06-2014 10:43 PM

a1Jim is right, if you move the indexing pin away from the blade it makes the joint tighter and vice versa. I use a dial caliber because a few thousands makes a big change. I used standard key stock and glued it into a groove on the underside of the wooden block. The bolt holes in the block are oversize to allow movement of the block and key stock.

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