Cutting Board #4

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Project by darkone posted 09-14-2013 07:22 PM 1853 views 3 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This is the forth cutting board I have made and by far took the most work. This board is made of end-grain Hickory and Hard Maple and is about 16” x 18”.

This board started out much thicker and I got a little careless during the glue-ups and the strips weren’t very level. I figured it wouldn’t be too bad leveling everything…but it was. I used my jack plane and was having a really hard time (didn’t have a very sharp blade) and I also tried leveling with a large router bit and a sled. This caused a lot of tear out and still didn’t leave it very level (I probably need to build a better sled). Finally, I got a sharp blade in my jack plane and just went at it for a while. Got a few blisters but eventually got it pretty flat and looking pretty good. This is the best reminder for taking a little more care in the preparation when using 2 of the hardest domestic woods.

I tried another new method for the handholds using a dado blade and slowly lifting the blade into the clamped board. I really liked this method as is was very fast and left a good finish.

Finished it with some Howard Butcher Block Oil.

Thanks for looking,


7 comments so far

View Dusty56's profile


11863 posts in 4744 days

#1 posted 09-14-2013 08:26 PM

The grain in that Hickory is fantastic. Nice board : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View JL7's profile


8786 posts in 4021 days

#2 posted 09-14-2013 10:57 PM

Your efforts paid off…......that’s a great looking board…..

-- Jeff .... Minnesota, USA

View aussiedave's profile


3114 posts in 2881 days

#3 posted 09-14-2013 10:59 PM

A very nice cutting board…grain looks great…well done.

-- Dave.......If at first you don’t succeed redefine success....

View SchwartzTheYounger's profile


20 posts in 3216 days

#4 posted 09-15-2013 04:51 AM

I like your method for making the handholds. I’ll have to try it sometime.

Thanks for sharing. The board looks great.

-- Eric Schwartz (Versailles, KY), Bliss is teaching your son to use a tool.

View deon's profile


2522 posts in 4082 days

#5 posted 09-15-2013 05:51 AM

Looks great!

-- Dreaming patterns

View hoss12992's profile


4180 posts in 2949 days

#6 posted 09-15-2013 06:11 AM

This is awesome. Love the woods. Great job

-- The Old Rednek Workshop

View bannerpond1's profile


397 posts in 2955 days

#7 posted 09-16-2013 01:22 AM

Really great design, Huck. I really like the way you planned the

Nearly everyone says you CAN’T run end grain through the planer. That’s not true. You could have saved yourself a lot of work and fluster if you did what I do. I’ve made a couple of dozen this way and never lost a board to the planer.

First of all, be very vigilant when you do your second glue-up when the end grain becomes the face of the board. Use cauls if you have to, and as many clamps as you need, but keep that sucker FLAT. When you glue the pieces, put a sacrificial strip on each end of the board. I use poplar or maple scraps, and it doesn’t matter what you use.

These sacrificial scraps will keep the end grain at each end of your glue-up from being chipped out when the end exits the cutting heads. Be sure to cut less than half what you normally would when you are planing end grain. Better to make your cuts too thin than too thick and really bog down the planer.

These sacrificial boards are cut off when you’ve done all the planing you’re going to do. I use a crosscut sled for all my cutting after the first glue-up, and then to cut off the sacrificial ends. Also, I set my jointer

Then I put the newly planed, end grain board through my drum sander over and over until I get rid of any planer marks. After that, I use 80 grit on my ROS sander at 150 grit. You will be amazed how smooth 80 grit will make end grain, and 150 is all you need to call it done.

I’ve had really good luck with Boos Oil, several coats til it won’t absorb any more.

-- --Dale Page

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