Dremel Tool Router Table

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Project by SebringDon posted 07-30-2013 10:58 PM 21445 views 31 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Small pieces of stock and tight curves are tough to sand. The Ridgid oscillating sander is overkill, hand-sanding is tedious, and holding a Dremel in one hand and stock in the other is an invitation to poor results. Trying to clamp small pieces and bring the tool to the wood works only a little bit better.

I got this plan from Wood Magazine, August 2000. They tout it as a rotary tool router table, but I’ve only used it as a sanding table so far. It excels at that job.

The top is 1/2” ply, the back is 1/4” ply, the side supports are 3/4” radiata pine, and the support blocks were resawn on the bandsaw from a piece of 2×4. Some strips of foam tape mounted inside the support block cutouts hold the Dremel securely. I can change bits from under the table using the little wrench that comes with the tool.

-- Don

12 comments so far

View NaFianna's profile


537 posts in 4516 days

#1 posted 07-30-2013 11:13 PM

Mmmmm! I think this might be a solution to a problem I am having. Well done.

-- Cad a dheanfaimid feasta gan adhmad.......?

View MShort's profile


1798 posts in 4908 days

#2 posted 07-31-2013 12:16 AM

Nice idea.

-- Mike, Missouri --- “A positive life can not happen with a negative mind.” ---

View WoodenFrog's profile


2737 posts in 4403 days

#3 posted 07-31-2013 12:35 AM

I like it! Very cool!! I need one of those!
Since I pretty much do all my work with the Dremel tool!

-- Robert B. Sabina, Ohio.....

View Ken90712's profile


18123 posts in 4679 days

#4 posted 07-31-2013 08:40 AM

Very neat! I like it….

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View olddutchman1's profile


69 posts in 3902 days

#5 posted 07-31-2013 12:14 PM

That’s great idea! My Grandson who is not all that interested in the workshop, is always pulling His Dremel tool box out, and setting it on the floor because I don’t have a place to put it. This might be a great idea for Him! Thanks for a great Idea :)

-- Saved! and so gratefull.Consider Who Created it All

View Mike's profile


139 posts in 3531 days

#6 posted 07-31-2013 01:04 PM

Sweet! I SO NEED one of these!

-- A person of integrity never speaks of it...he walks in it...

View Sanding2day's profile


1018 posts in 3337 days

#7 posted 07-31-2013 01:47 PM

Nice work!! Add a fence and life is good for this that and the other… Thanks for sharing :)

-- Dan

View exit116's profile


140 posts in 3282 days

#8 posted 07-31-2013 02:15 PM

very cool, I’m always hand sanding odd little parts.

-- Money: if you do not have fun earning it, have fun spending it, I do not enjoy spending it so I have fun earning it.

View Randy_ATX's profile


882 posts in 3932 days

#9 posted 07-31-2013 09:05 PM

Very nice Don, probably a lot of us with Dremels may attempt something similar now. Slight tangent, have you (or others reading) had much luck with the ~1/8 to ~1/4 straight cutting router bits sold for Dremels? I briefly tried them out on some scrap and they seemed to create a lot of tear-out. I also experimented with less depth and still bad results. Basically I tried to create a shallow groove to then place some inlay into it. Curious as to others’ results. If it worked, this table with a fence and router bit would be perfect for this type of work.

-- Randy -- Austin, TX by way of Northwest (Woodville), OH

View DarrenWK's profile


3 posts in 3246 days

#10 posted 08-13-2013 08:06 PM

Good work, Don. I’ve been looking at these for the past couple of weeks, and have been afraid to start one. My major problem in this is, how do you square the spindle to the table top? Most of the versions I’ve seen clamp the Dremel in the same spot you have. When you did that, how did you ensure that you shape the clamp so that it will consistently be square when you reattach the Dremel? Thanks in advance.

View SebringDon's profile


95 posts in 3430 days

#11 posted 08-16-2013 11:55 PM

The general shape of the cutout is just a circle, then I lined the inside of the cut with two strips of foam like you use on the bottom of a piece of furniture. It comes in strips as well as circles, squares, etc. Then I clamped the Dremel in, squared it to the table, tightened it down and left it for a few days. Now there are pretty apparent indents in the foam that help with the lineup. It’s been dead on the couple of times I’ve used it since then. I just leave the Dremel in the table after I use it unless I need it for freehand work. It’s a small package even with the Dremel installed and sets nicely on a shelf.

-- Don

View ElLoboSolo's profile


8 posts in 2821 days

#12 posted 05-31-2015 11:09 AM

I found it a good idea to do the clamp block as a single piece cut from a 2×6, doing all the drilling cutting before cutting it in two lengthwise. I put that piece up against the bottom of the top piece and drilled a pilot hole through the clamp and into the top in one run, assuring the two would be aligned.

I also skipped the curves so I could clamp it in a Dremel vise.

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