Outfeed / Assembly Table

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Project by Thalweg posted 02-01-2013 02:15 AM 6479 views 37 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch

We’ve had a lot of outfeed tables lately. I just finished mine so I figured I’d add it to the mix. The sub-assembly is just machined dimensional lumber put together with mortices and tenons. It’s painted with hammered paint. The top is one layer of 3/4” plywood with a layer of melamine on top. The bottom is another layer of melamine. In the top I put Kreg Clamp Tracks set at 90 degrees to each other. I did this to aid in building cabinet face frames. The feet are hockey pucks. This was an idea I got from one of the magazines, I think it was Shop Notes. They make great feet.

16 comments so far

View kdc68's profile


2991 posts in 3188 days

#1 posted 02-01-2013 02:28 AM

Can’t have too many outfeed tables….Yours turned out great. Can you provide width and length dimensions?

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View Pcwoodchipes's profile


19 posts in 2862 days

#2 posted 02-01-2013 02:37 AM

How did you put your joints together . I do like your table. Very good job. I also like the way you line it up with your table saw.

-- Gary Panama City Fl In God I Trust

View OggieOglethorpe's profile


1276 posts in 3022 days

#3 posted 02-01-2013 03:01 AM


Two suggestions…

- Make your miter bar slots wider than your saw’s. This allows slight misalignments. It doesn’t compromise accuracy, as the saw will guide the bars where it counts.

- Run your miter slots farther, even all the way across. Some day, you may want to use large panel sleds, so you need the room. Even if you don’t, sometimes it’s nice to be able to kick a crosscut sled out of the way, without lifting it off the table. Rarely will two slots interfere with the assembly function. If it does, drop a sheet of melamine on the table.

View Natalie 's profile


369 posts in 2878 days

#4 posted 02-01-2013 09:02 AM

Great suggestions Barry. I’m taking notes for the table I hope to be building soon.

-- Natalie - My mind is like a bad neighborhood, I don't like to go there alone.

View bluekingfisher's profile


1333 posts in 3891 days

#5 posted 02-01-2013 10:02 AM

Nice, real nice, very clean and functional.


-- No one plans to fail, they just, just fail to plan

View lexxx07's profile


49 posts in 3210 days

#6 posted 02-01-2013 12:00 PM

r the face frame assembly tracks flush with the table top and edge or r my eyes decieving me

View Thalweg's profile


103 posts in 4317 days

#7 posted 02-01-2013 02:24 PM

The dimensions of the top are 68” x 49 3/4”. That was essentially the width of the sheet of melamine and the width of the table saw, plus a 3/4” wide trim piece all the way around. The table is about 32” high plus the adjustable height of the feet. There is a 4” overhang all the way around for plenty of clamping space.

The joints are all mortice and tenons with glue. Nothing fancy, but strong. The only hardware on the thing are pocket hole screws that hold the tops to the base, bolts holding the tracks on to the top, and the feet.

The miter bar slots are about twice as wide as the slots on the saw. There is plenty of “fudge” room on them. The whole thing is so heavy it doesn’t move, so I don’t think it’ll be a problem. They are long enough that my miter guage can come all the way off the table without lifting. I can’t imagine needing them any longer. If it ever becomes a problem, it’s a simple fix with a router.

I followed the Kreg instructions for the tracks. The way the have them designed, there is about a 1/16” drop between the top of the table and the top of the tracks.

View helluvawreck's profile


32122 posts in 3778 days

#8 posted 02-01-2013 04:48 PM

This is really nice and it’s an excellent way to save room. Why not kill two birds with one stone.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View RockyTopScott's profile


1186 posts in 4390 days

#9 posted 02-01-2013 06:50 PM

Very nice table…great idea. Where did you get the adjustable feet?

-- “When you want to help people, you tell them the truth. When you want to help yourself, you tell them what they want to hear.” ― Thomas Sowell

View Thalweg's profile


103 posts in 4317 days

#10 posted 02-01-2013 06:57 PM

The adjustable feet are hockey pucks with a 1/2” carriage bolt through them. Countersink for the head of the bolt with a forstner bit, one nut to hold the bolt in place, two nuts to adjust the height and jam together to lock. Just drill a hole in the bottom of the leg and put it in there. IMO it’s better than any other foot on the market, and I’ve used a lot of the commercially available ones.

View kdc68's profile


2991 posts in 3188 days

#11 posted 02-01-2013 08:11 PM

Thalweg- thanks for the dimensions

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

View sixstring's profile


296 posts in 3155 days

#12 posted 02-01-2013 08:17 PM

Very nice job. Simple and yet so very effective. Looks like mine except I like how you painted your base. HammerPaint? I’lll have to look that up but is sounds like it’s supposed to be super durable and perfect for a shop table.

I agree w/ CessnaPilot’s suggestion with having the mitre track run all the way through. I guess lots of guys dont do that so there is an automatic backstop for the sled, but I’ve found that the tracks are useful for lots of other things. I’ve slid my large crosscut sled across the table and used the the fences as backstops for building cabinets or boxes. Most recently for building acrylic boxes for the first time. Much easier to do with my multi-function sled and table.

anyway, great build and enjoy!

-- JC Garcia, Concord, CA : "It's easier to ask forgiveness than permission..."

View shelly_b's profile


850 posts in 3029 days

#13 posted 02-01-2013 08:23 PM

awesome design! I have been meaning to make a face frame clamping table for a while now. I love how much they simplify assembly!

View Thalweg's profile


103 posts in 4317 days

#14 posted 02-01-2013 11:20 PM

Thanks everyone.

Sixstring, the hammered paint is a product of Rustoleum. I buy it at Home Depot. I’m not sure it’s any tougher than any other paint. I just like the way it looks. It comes in spray cans or quart cans. I’ve used the spray cans and shot it through an HVLP, but I’ve not had much luck getting the hammered effect by spraying. It seems to work best by using a roller. Fortunately that’s the easiest method too.

View NormG's profile


6508 posts in 3915 days

#15 posted 02-02-2013 11:11 PM

Great out feed table, thanks for sharing

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

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