Shelf rear / attachment

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Project by SST posted 03-14-2007 03:44 PM 2278 views 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

There was a question about how I will attach the shelf to the wall, so here is my method. While it is untested, it looks like it will be fine. NOTE: this is not a shelf that will take a lot of weight, just a couple of nicknacks. (is that really a word? no matter how I spell it, the spell check kicks in…maybe a silent “k” at the front)
The mounting hole in the back is large enough to accept a pass through of a common black oxide screw head and has a second connected hole at the top to allow the screw, once it passes through to settle into that part and lock the screw head in place.
You just need to get the screws in the wall far enough to allow the shelf to drop on without excessive slop.
I drilled the small upper holes first since they dictate the final position of the piece, and also to prevent drill bit “wandering” on the second hole, since the center of the large hole didn’t directly touch the other hole. I’m not sure I really explained that all that well, but trust me, if you do it the other way, it’s harder.-SST

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

4 comments so far

View BassBully's profile


261 posts in 4660 days

#1 posted 03-14-2007 04:07 PM

Thanks for showing how this is done. Hope it holds up well.

I’m always trying to find ideas for hanging floating shelves. I’ve also seen it done with steel rods welded to a metal plate. The metal plate goes against the wall and screws into the studs. Then, the shelve slides over the rods. It’s a more costly approach though. I like your idea better.

-- There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't!

View Bill's profile


2579 posts in 4725 days

#2 posted 03-14-2007 05:45 PM

Your method will probably work if the shelf and items do not weigh too much. Of course, if you could put the screws into the wall studs, that would be a big help.

I was wondering if this would be a good case for a french cleat instead? It might be too thick for your shelf, and keep it too far from the wall. But, like you said, you could use a metal cleat for that as well.

Let us know how it goes.

-- Bill, Turlock California,

View Chip's profile


1904 posts in 4656 days

#3 posted 03-14-2007 07:29 PM

I was wondering that too Bill… maybe it could be recessed into the back somehow… would definitly be great if a beautiful shelf like this could carry more weight.

Anyway, really terrific shelf. I have been wanting to tackle more curved pieces and this has been a great inspiration… thanks for posting it.

-- Better to say nothing and be thought the fool... then to speak and erase all doubt!

View SST's profile


790 posts in 4758 days

#4 posted 03-14-2007 07:56 PM

I’ve used this fastening method before with success even where a reasonable amount of weight was applied to the shelf. (This is a small one and won’t take much weight)
The only thing I did differently was to make the small locking part of the hole a bit more elongated to let the screw slide up a bit farther, and put the screws into studs. The real key, though, is to have a snug fit to the wall so that the shelf kind of locks in to the wall. That way, when you put stuff on the shelf, it’s not pulling away from the wall, only pushing down.

-- Accuracy is not in your power tool, it's in you

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