Overarm Blade Guard - Long Awaited

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Project by USCJeff posted 05-15-2008 02:27 AM 14374 views 29 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Woohoo! Finally took the time to do this one. I’ve been working without a guard for the last year or so and have known that I really should change that the whole time. The Grizzly 1023S factory guard takes two wrenches to remove. That lead to it not being put back on.

Anyways, I borrowed ideas from many sources so I can’t take a lot of credit for the design. The guard itself came from a BadgerPond Woodworker blog. I chose to used hardwood strips and screws versus attaching Lexan to Lexan. I can switch out parts easier should damage occur.

The guard assembly is constructed of aluminum square tubing and flat steel strips. The steel was recycled from an old work table. I used a metal cutting jigsaw blade to cut it and grinded it to shape. I used two plastic knobs on the front of the assembly, but they should not need to be loosened so it might be a little unneeded. The two walnut knobs are what makes the guard pivot. The knobs are 3.5” with a 1/4”-20 T-nut in it. Walnut is pretty straight grained so it should be able to handle the constant tightening/loosening (I hope).

The vertical mounting tube is steel. It was a stretcher for a work table that I’m slowly recycling. I cut the corners of the tubing so that I could bend them to right angles. I drilled holes in the bended right angles for 6” lag bolts. The lags are secured to a base on the ceiling that is attached to studs.

Future Plans: The first thing I think most will think is where’s the dust collection hookup. Need to do that. There’s room for a 4” splice on the front end. However, my dust collector barely keeps up with the cabinet so I’m not sure that I’ll split the airflow until I upgrade. Maybe a shop vac in the mean time. Also, I plan to attache a hinge to the ceiling support and use a pulley to get the whole assembly out of the way for tall vertical cuts.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

5 comments so far

View USCJeff's profile


1065 posts in 4876 days

#1 posted 05-15-2008 02:34 AM

Just wanted to add the link to the plan resource I worked from: Link

It’s very well written and I found it easily adaptable to what I wanted my setup to achieve. Don’t know the author or the forum, but thanks goes to them.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 4629 days

#2 posted 05-15-2008 03:18 AM


This is a nice addition to your saw that should make for a much safer operation and more convenient, which is the main reason a lot of us, myself included, remove the guards permanently. I need to add a guard to my saw so I may have to “borrow” some of your ideas.

Thanks for the post. It has been helpful.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View jockmike2's profile


10635 posts in 5054 days

#3 posted 05-15-2008 11:17 AM

Always good to keep safety in mind. I took mine off and never put it back on. I’ve been thinking lately maybe I should put it on. Be safe. mike

-- (You just have to please the man in the Mirror) Mike from Michigan -

View bigike's profile


4057 posts in 4096 days

#4 posted 05-01-2011 10:46 PM


-- Ike, Big Daddies Woodshop, http://[email protected]

View USCJeff's profile


1065 posts in 4876 days

#5 posted 11-02-2011 05:19 AM

I’ve been able to give this project a lot of shop time testing since it was installed. ONE BIG CHANGE that one would need to account for (I didn’t) is to make it so that it can get out of the way when working on taller pieces. It was in the way when cutting tenons on a vertical fence sliding jig. There was really no way for mine to easily be adjusted for that scenario. I now see why a side mount might be a better option. I removed the whole thing and haven’t gone back to redesigning just yet.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

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