Lumber rack

  • Advertise with us
Project by Sandra posted 09-28-2012 04:09 AM 2907 views 1 time favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Look up, look waaaay up.

After buying some rough boards of maple and birch I was faced with the problem of how to store them. Floor space is at a premium in the garage, so the only way to go was up.

I copied the plans from the Wood Whisperer in “Racking my Brains” It was pretty straightforward, only pia was climbing up and down the ladder. An extra pair of hands would have been useful.

The brackets are two pieces of plywood glued and screwed onto a piece of 2×4. The whole thing acts as a mortise with the 2×4 attached to the wall.

I used 5” lag screws to make sure it was sturdy and able to hold the weight of the hardwood.

Of course getting the boards down will also be a pia, but that’s the way it goes.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

12 comments so far

View KarenW's profile


131 posts in 3271 days

#1 posted 09-28-2012 12:55 PM

A folding 2 step-ladder is what you need next. :)

-- Happiness does not come from doing easy work but from the afterglow of satisfaction that comes after the achievement of a difficult task that demanded our best. --Theodore I. Rubin

View nwbusa's profile


1023 posts in 3370 days

#2 posted 09-28-2012 03:08 PM

Nice work, Sandra. One comment you might want to consider—if you are using 5” long lag screws, it looks like 3.5” is consumed going through the 2×4, then another 5/8” or so for the drywall. That leaves less than 1” going into the studs of the wall. Might be enough if you don’t overload the rack, but if it was me (and I also have overhead racks in my shop) I’d want more bite going into the studs. In my case, with 2×6 studs in the wall, I have something like 4” of the lag screw driven into the studs. My two cents :) Good luck!

-- John, BC, Canada

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 3158 days

#3 posted 09-29-2012 12:46 AM

Hi John,

Funny you should mention that – the reason there is only a few sticks of lumber in the photos is because I was on the fence after putting them up in so far as the length of the screws. The lag screws that you can’t see are counter-sunk (is that a word?) by at least 1/2 inch and there are three in each upright. It’s probably enough, but I suspect I’ll be going back and replacing them with longer ones before the weekend is out.

Thanks for the input, that’s why I post here – for learning.


-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View OmegaRed's profile


34 posts in 3159 days

#4 posted 09-29-2012 03:39 PM

Sandra I need to hire you to come and organize all my stuff! :)

-- "(...) The archer ceases to be conscious of himself as the one who is engaged in hitting the bull's-eye which confronts him(...)"

View DocSavage45's profile


9048 posts in 3926 days

#5 posted 09-29-2012 06:48 PM

Load goes in two directions. Down and the more wieght ….out..LOL

Just read another post where your buying more wood…LOL! Be safe..overbuild!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

30615 posts in 3421 days

#6 posted 09-30-2012 11:28 AM

You’ve got the right idea on everything I have read of yours so far. I agree with Doc, on the lumber rack, overbuild where possible. You will put more in there than you think.

As far as inspiration from this website, you’re also right. Most members here are willing to answer questions and share tricks of the trade stuff. The beauty is here that for the most part, we’re not competing with one another. If you ask locals, they’ll think you’re gonna steal their business asking someone 1500 miles away posses no threat to them. It’s also a gas to be able to talk to people all over the planet and automatically have something in common with them.

Hope you enjoy it here. Welcome to LJ’s.

-- Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 3158 days

#7 posted 10-01-2012 12:53 PM

Thanks for the comments. I went into HD this weekend, and picked up some 6” lag screws. It’s funny how I can drop lots of cash on tools, but just about passed out when I saw the price of the screws. I decided to put them close to the top of the uprights, hopefully my reasoning was sound. I have three left to put in, but since I don’t have a socket bit large enough, I’m using my ratchet, and needed to take a break. If a hurricane ever hits this corner of the world, I think I’ll stand under these racks.

Monte – you’re very right. While I certainly wouldn’t be stealing anybody’s business, I get a lot of ‘you should do this’ and ‘you should do that’ and I have no way of knowing if they are blowing smoke or actually know what they’re talking about. Since joining LJ, I just nod and smile, and then read on this site. Thanks again.

I’ll post another picture once the racks are done and loaded.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View daltxguy's profile


1373 posts in 4997 days

#8 posted 10-01-2012 07:44 PM

I like the Friendly Giant reference.

I did a similar design, but in an open stud wall in the garage, so you don’t have to secure the 2×4, since it’s part of the wall already.

I used Mr. Woodgears’ design (Matthias Wandel)

-- If you can't joint it, bead it!

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 3158 days

#9 posted 10-01-2012 10:15 PM

I’ll call Rusty.

I checked out those plans. Very much like the Wood Whisperer’s (or vice versa) I’m going to have to look up cantilever….

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Thatcher's profile


33 posts in 3774 days

#10 posted 12-02-2012 08:30 AM

Nice execution. I’m in the habit of coutersinking (yes it is a word, or so I say) a bunch to get the lag screw and washer below the surface and ensure a good length of bite in real wood. If you are concerned about load, you might consider a vertical piece at each end tied into a ceiling joist (directly if you are lucky, or indirectly if not lucky). As someone else said, lumber racks like these are oh so much easier where you have open access to studs and joists.

-- -T

View RoadHogg's profile


130 posts in 3011 days

#11 posted 02-22-2013 08:56 PM

Reading about your projects…nice work!

Just a note about driving screws, nails or anything else into walls. Don’t forget that building code states that all wiring and plumbing that is run in a wall must not be closer than 1 1/2” from the edge of the stud (the inside face of the wall sheeting) I mention that because, unless you know for certain that there is nothing of the sort in a wall, you need to be sure your fasteners do not protrude more than 1 1/2” into the stud. (1 1/2” + thickness of wall sheeting + thickness of whatever you’re screwing to the wall = max length of fastener) Wouldn’t want to blow a water line or make your lag screws live by piercing a live wire in there.

-- "The difference between school and real life is that in real life the tests come first, and then the lessons" -- Robert Lang,

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 3158 days

#12 posted 02-23-2013 09:45 PM

Thanks Road Hogg. I didn’t know that. My stud finder also checks for electrical current, so I was good for that, but I think my fasteners are more than 1 1/2” into the stud.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics