"Swivel Dogs" prevent end vise racking

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Project by Oldtool posted 08-04-2012 09:54 AM 9239 views 36 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

When I posted my router sled project ( ), the bench dog attachments in my photos caught the eye of a few individuals, and were named Swivel Dogs by “exelectrician”, so I thought I’d post these for anyone who might like to try them.
I started with 3/4” hard maple. The first step is layout, as shown the photos. The center of the hinge is located first, and I drilled a small 1/16” hole there as a future reference. I then re-sawed the outer hinge board, taking off 1/4” of material. (in a similar manner to that as shown in many articles on making bench planes) This allowed me to then use my largest Forstner bit to create the middle of this side, drilling from the freshly re-sawn side, taking out 1/4” of material. Then I glued this board back together.
The layout I used has 10 degree angles off the parallel to the back edge, so that rotation can allow clamping a board as much as 20 degrees off of a 90 degree cut. I then used the Forstner to remove a 1/4” of material from both side if the second board, and test fit this half of the hinge into the first half.
That is as simple as it gets, pretty much done, but I also decided to cut out openings to match my bench dogs, to prevent and possible slipping. I also added 80 grit self-adhesive sand paper to the face of the Swivel Dog, to help with clamping grip.
I intended to drill and insert a dowel or bolt in the center of the hinge, but found that these worked for me without a hinge pin. Also, for anyone wanting to apply a great amount of pressure, I also thought about making the hinge portion out of 1/8” tool steel stock, then bolting to the cross boards. I found that for me in this router sled application, all works fine as is.
Thanks for looking.

-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln

8 comments so far

View ajosephg's profile


1899 posts in 4853 days

#1 posted 08-04-2012 10:03 AM

Thanks for sharing. I was wondering about these also.

-- Joe

View TheDane's profile


6024 posts in 4955 days

#2 posted 08-04-2012 11:13 AM

Great idea … thanks for posting!


-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View shipwright's profile


8761 posts in 4090 days

#3 posted 08-04-2012 04:31 PM

What a good idea.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View Bricofleur's profile


1482 posts in 4485 days

#4 posted 08-04-2012 06:21 PM

This is a great design! I keep it in mind. Thanks for posting.



-- Learn from yesterday, work today and enjoy success tomorrow. --

View madts's profile


1959 posts in 3631 days

#5 posted 08-05-2012 03:37 AM

Those are just great. Thanks for the post

-- Thor and Odin are still the greatest of Gods.

View exelectrician's profile


2339 posts in 3719 days

#6 posted 08-05-2012 08:30 PM

Way more complex than I thought … with the lapped pivot. I thought a 2” dowel served as the pivot.
Beautiful job by the way.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View Benjimin's profile


6 posts in 1152 days

#7 posted 03-14-2020 04:03 PM

Thanks for sharing, this is exactly the kind of sled features I have been dreaming of. If I understand the function it requires a table to be in a good plane. Question, when adjusting the height during setup, could equal sized spacing blocks be temporary placed under all four corners of the sled between the sled and the piece that rids on the bench?


View Oldtool's profile


3354 posts in 3482 days

#8 posted 03-15-2020 02:06 AM

Yes, the reference table should be as flat as possible, and yes, you can use any method you want to get the sled parallel to the table or work bench top. I’ve used a 2 X 4 X 12” long on each side to set the sled height. This can be achieved before you put the work piece under the sled. The idea here is to keep the router bit as parallel to the work bench top as possible, thus producing a flat plane on the top of the work piece.
After flattening the one side, I run the board through a thickness planer to flatten the other side.

-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln

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