Project 8 - Simple pine dovetailed box.

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Project by Richard B posted 03-22-2012 01:54 AM 2508 views 1 time favorited 15 comments Add to Favorites Watch

This box was made from clear pine (the sides) regular quality pine (the top) and some luann plywood for the bottom.

The sides are dovetailed, as you can see. The bottom sits in a groove that I created using my new handmade plow/groove planes. The top is a simple pine board rabbited on 4 sides.

The finish is blonde shellac (1.5 pound cut, x 5 coats) with every other coat gently buffed with 0000 steel wool. Lastly I rubbed 1 coat of wax on it as a last step.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama

15 comments so far

View Martyroc's profile


2712 posts in 3315 days

#1 posted 03-22-2012 02:11 AM

Nice box, this look like hand cut dovetails, very nice.

-- Martin ....always count the number of fingers you have before, and after using the saw.

View Ian Hawthorne's profile

Ian Hawthorne

297 posts in 3658 days

#2 posted 03-22-2012 05:55 AM

Very clean workmaship Richard!

-- Worlds Best Box Hardware!

View ratchet's profile


1391 posts in 4796 days

#3 posted 03-22-2012 12:07 PM

Very nice Richard. I really do favor the functionally clean lines of it. Sort of reminds me of those nice Japanese tool boxes. Well done.

View Picho's profile


15 posts in 4791 days

#4 posted 03-22-2012 12:50 PM

Are those hand cut dovetails? very nice box!

View RogerBean's profile


1605 posts in 3962 days

#5 posted 03-22-2012 01:38 PM

Nicely done. Pine is surely underrated. It deserves more respect than it gets. And, your use of dovetails here is the perfect complement to the pine. Dovetails on a box are often out of place, or overkill, or just unnecessary, but here you’ve made them work beautifully… and with fine craftsmanship.

-- "Everybody makes mistakes. A craftsman always fixes them." (Monty Kennedy, "The Checkering and Carving of Gunstocks", 1952)

View vakman's profile


301 posts in 3412 days

#6 posted 03-22-2012 09:48 PM

Excellent work! Did you size this so that the sides and top are based on dimensional lumber? e.g. 1×6s for the sides and 1×8 for the top?

-- - Power is not revealed by striking hard or often, but by striking true. -

View Mikeyf56's profile


171 posts in 4230 days

#7 posted 03-22-2012 09:50 PM

Well done.

-- Powered by Smith & Wilson~~~

View doncutlip's profile


2832 posts in 4565 days

#8 posted 03-22-2012 10:05 PM

Nice looking joinery

-- Don, Royersford, PA

View Richard B's profile

Richard B

30 posts in 3512 days

#9 posted 03-22-2012 10:43 PM

It was sized to fit my workbench. I have a split top bench with a ~6 inch gap between the tops. These boxes fit between the bench tops and their height is set to be flush to the benchtop(with the box top removed). The length of the project needed to be either 1/3 or 1/4 or 1/5 the length of my bench. Aesthetically and functionally I liked the size of these, which are about 1/4 the length of the bench.
I demension my lumber by hand, so whenever I can I try to find materials close to or at the finished thickness. In this case the sides are 5/8 or 6/8 thick. All this material came from the home depot down the street.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama

View lysdexic's profile


5348 posts in 3632 days

#10 posted 03-23-2012 03:42 AM

That is a clean, simple, well executed design. How did you execute the rabbets for the top?

-- "It's only wood. Use it." - Smitty || Instagram - nobodhi_here

View WispWoods's profile


65 posts in 4435 days

#11 posted 03-23-2012 04:56 AM

Great Box, Richard! I really like the lid.

-- - You begin thinking less, and feeling more.

View Richard B's profile

Richard B

30 posts in 3512 days

#12 posted 03-23-2012 05:59 AM

@ lysdexic:
The rabbets were done mainly using a shoulder plane. I have a router plane and attempted to use it first but found it harder to control and so I switched to a shoulder plane, which worked very well. I scribed the width of the rabbets with a marking gauge, then began passing over it with the shoulder plane. After the first one I added a spare board to act as a fence, which speeded up the first 1 mm or so of the rabbet depth. After the first mm or so I removed the fence and guided the plane freehand.
For the last rabbet I tried a different approach: I crosscut the margin of the rabbet with a backsaw then chiseled out 90 percent of the waste and cleaned it up with the shoulder plane. That was probably the fastest if the several methods I attempted.

-- Richard B, Birmingham Alabama

View lysdexic's profile


5348 posts in 3632 days

#13 posted 03-23-2012 10:46 AM

Cool.,I just wondered if you had a moving fillister.

-- "It's only wood. Use it." - Smitty || Instagram - nobodhi_here

View stefang's profile


17040 posts in 4343 days

#14 posted 03-23-2012 06:24 PM

It came out very nice. Pine can look great if it’s treated right as you have done here.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View john_az's profile


105 posts in 3379 days

#15 posted 03-29-2012 03:50 AM

Nice straight forward simple design. I like it.

-- John, Phoenix-AZ

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