Project Information
This is my new cross cut sled for my new /used table saw
I build this dobottom sled with a adjustable fence to be able to tune it anytime without much trouble.
The sled is build on a bottom layer of 8mm /3/8" MDF with maple guides which I cut slightly smaller then the mitre grooves to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction .
The fences are attached with bolts and T-nuts at the rear fence and screws at the leading or front fence with no glue .
As I assemble the sled I insert wedges between the bottom halves and this removes any play as both outsides of the guides are forced against the mitre slots removing any play and giving the maple guides room to expand in the mitre slots .
The rear fence is adjustable with a bolt into a brass threaded insert making it a very easy procedure .
The top layer is replaceable and can be adjusted to any blade width as required giving me a zero clearence insertand in all tilt positions ,the red thumb screws are the locking device for this ( see pic three )
The rear fence also has a removable insert which is housed in a dovetailed recess and adjustable by four screws . ( I have several inserts for different blades )
The stop blocks ride on halve dove tails on the fences and are locked with clamp bolts and wing nuts.
I left the bottom and back of the stop blocks with some clearence to keep sawdust away from the index face.
I will install tapes for the stop blocks (left and right ) and hope this sled works as well a I think it will.
I have done the five cut test and got it perfect in three attempts and the adjustment bolt made it very easy as the fence pivot on the left tee nut only which fits tight in the hole ( the three other bolt holes are oversize) giving the fence room to move during the adjustment procedure .
I hope to add a travel stop in the near future as I accidently cut threw the blade guard already ( see extra piece added )
Any comments and questions welcome ,good or bad !
Kiefer
I build this dobottom sled with a adjustable fence to be able to tune it anytime without much trouble.
The sled is build on a bottom layer of 8mm /3/8" MDF with maple guides which I cut slightly smaller then the mitre grooves to allow for seasonal expansion and contraction .
The fences are attached with bolts and T-nuts at the rear fence and screws at the leading or front fence with no glue .
As I assemble the sled I insert wedges between the bottom halves and this removes any play as both outsides of the guides are forced against the mitre slots removing any play and giving the maple guides room to expand in the mitre slots .
The rear fence is adjustable with a bolt into a brass threaded insert making it a very easy procedure .
The top layer is replaceable and can be adjusted to any blade width as required giving me a zero clearence insertand in all tilt positions ,the red thumb screws are the locking device for this ( see pic three )
The rear fence also has a removable insert which is housed in a dovetailed recess and adjustable by four screws . ( I have several inserts for different blades )
The stop blocks ride on halve dove tails on the fences and are locked with clamp bolts and wing nuts.
I left the bottom and back of the stop blocks with some clearence to keep sawdust away from the index face.
I will install tapes for the stop blocks (left and right ) and hope this sled works as well a I think it will.
I have done the five cut test and got it perfect in three attempts and the adjustment bolt made it very easy as the fence pivot on the left tee nut only which fits tight in the hole ( the three other bolt holes are oversize) giving the fence room to move during the adjustment procedure .
I hope to add a travel stop in the near future as I accidently cut threw the blade guard already ( see extra piece added )
Any comments and questions welcome ,good or bad !
Kiefer