slightly larger box

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Project by Mike Gager posted 03-22-2011 03:24 AM 2035 views 2 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

heres the latest box ive done. just finished this up today. it is made from Hickory that i got from a pallet and figured maple from a cabinet shop reject bin. finish is 2 coats of formbys “tung oil” which i didnt realize is just varnish til after i used it. i didnt really like the way it turned out so i added 2 coats of wipe on poly on top of that and it smoothed it out a bit. i think it has a real rustic look to it

this is the fifth box ive made and the first with box joints. i used the box joint jig i posted here to do the joints. the hickory is really hard so it makes it a bit tough to work but i think it turned out pretty nice

it measures 14”x6” and is 3.25” tall. im not real sure what exactly im going to do with it yet.

7 comments so far

View kiefer's profile


5852 posts in 4125 days

#1 posted 03-22-2011 04:45 AM

hi mike
i like the first box
this one is ok too
using pallet wood is good but you never know what it may have been exposed too
i am always thinking about that
on the other hand its like making a silk purse out of a sows ear
good job and i like your tools nice collection for “beginner”

stay save


-- Kiefer

View dustysawyer's profile


138 posts in 4086 days

#2 posted 03-22-2011 07:14 PM

I’m making a similar box now and have a question. I assume the top has been “trapped” grooves also assuming groove are done with router table. How are the grooves stopped short safely? I’m a newbe and can only see doing a climb cut.. (Hope my terminology is correct)

View Mike Gager's profile

Mike Gager

665 posts in 4725 days

#3 posted 03-22-2011 07:35 PM

hi dustysawyer, if im understanding you right you are asking about the groove/dado that the top (and bottom) fit in and how i cut it so the ends dont show from the outside?

what i did is made a mark on my router fence at the point i wanted to start the cut and then another where i wanted to stop it. i then turned on the router and just lowered the pieces down on the bit lined with the first mark then cut the groove and stopped at the second mark and turned off the router. i did this after cutting the box joints. i made sure the groove lined up with the box joint fingers to make it easier to clean up

i wanted to make sure i didnt break off a piece of the box joint so i stopped the groove a ways before it reached that far then i just finished it up with chisels

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

12605 posts in 4886 days

#4 posted 03-22-2011 07:43 PM

Naturally the end pieces are router through.
You know where you want the front and back grooves to stop (based on the depth of the end grooves). Let’s say it’a 1/4” from the end. Mark a vertical line 1/4” from the cutting edge of each side of the bit you are using.
Start the piece by aligning the end with the line at the trailing edge or, left side of the bit and plunge the piece, running the piece right to left until you reach the line you drew on the right side of the bit.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View itsmic's profile


1419 posts in 4576 days

#5 posted 03-22-2011 08:19 PM

Nice box, naturally I like the box joints, they look nice and tight, your dimensions and choice of woods are wonderful, good job, thanks for sharing

-- It's Mic Keep working and sharing

View dustysawyer's profile


138 posts in 4086 days

#6 posted 03-22-2011 08:42 PM

Thanks Mike and Gene for the stopped dado instructions. I wanted to make sure it was safe to “plunge” on a table mounted router.

View Mike Gager's profile

Mike Gager

665 posts in 4725 days

#7 posted 03-22-2011 08:49 PM

yeah id say its fairly safe, i use a push block and also have another piece along the side to keep the workpiece tight against the fence. anything you can do to keep your fingers away from the bit will help

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