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matching stains

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Project by jimofalltrades posted 03-18-2011 04:27 AM 1680 views 0 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I have this butcher block kitchen table that i dumpster dove about a month ago. I have gotten most of it sanded down and I’m at the finish stage. However due to the shape of the pedestal i will not be able to sand that as quickly as i would like. My ideal solution would be to match the stain that is currently on the pedestal since there’s nothing wrong with it But as i experienced last fall getting a stain just right can be difficult. I have tried a bit of stain on this sanded leg. Any suggestions on how to find the right tint would be appreciated.





7 comments so far

View hlpaint's profile

hlpaint

26 posts in 4709 days


#1 posted 03-18-2011 05:03 AM

Jim, from your pictures it looks like you may have a sprayed on stain/finish. Which is hard to copy without a spray system. Try a gel stain which will stay on the surface of the wood more than penitrate the wood. Start with colonel maple or a cherry and then top coat with a clear finish. The gels will let you play with the color shading more than a penetrating stain.

-- The guy who makes no mistakes hasn't done anything

View superstretch's profile

superstretch

1532 posts in 4035 days


#2 posted 03-18-2011 05:18 AM

I’d say a golden oak, but yes, I definitely agree w/gel stain. I have a pair of 100+ year old french doors where you can barely even see the grain.. the finish is almost painted on. Gonna have a bear of a time matching that when I need to repair… All that because the colors look identical.

-- Dan, Rochester, NY

View Bearpaw's profile

Bearpaw

271 posts in 5062 days


#3 posted 03-18-2011 06:14 AM

I believe there is a good wood worker supply house near the airport in St. Louis, but try to find someone that carries can spay lacquer toners. Put down a clear lacquer, let dry and lightly sand with 220 grit, then spray on the toner and then top coat with a clear lacquer. From the size of the table this could be done from spray cans. Just be carefull in applying it. If you could access an HVLC sprayer, then it would be easier.

You will have troble matching with gel stain unless you take everything back to bare wood.

A great sport – dumpster diving.

-- "When we build, let us think we build forever." John Ruskin

View PGreene's profile

PGreene

114 posts in 4772 days


#4 posted 03-18-2011 01:12 PM

You might also try water or alcohol based dyes instead. You can mix the concentration of those colors to get a lot closer to what you want.

-- Patrick

View jimofalltrades's profile

jimofalltrades

9 posts in 4108 days


#5 posted 03-19-2011 01:26 AM

well right now im hoping that the ipswitch or a combination with colonial maple will get me there. I should be able to put on the 2nd coat tonight ill take a pic of that after it dries. Until i am happy with the stain i will only stain the legs

View jimofalltrades's profile

jimofalltrades

9 posts in 4108 days


#6 posted 03-19-2011 03:47 PM

well im getting there worst case i sand and start over.

It looks really close when i put the stain on but when it dries. it doesnt look so close.

View Leroy5's profile

Leroy5

91 posts in 4394 days


#7 posted 03-19-2011 04:08 PM

Go with the color of the WET stain. When you put finish on top, it will return to that color.
The pigments are probably in the finish. In my work (sanding & finishing wood floors), I carry around bottles of universal pigment (for painters) which I can use in clear finishes to get the color I want to “brush on”. So you don’t have to use a spray, but if you find some the right color, by all means try that. But it is important to cover your work with 1 or 2 coats of clear finish to protect the colored layer.
By the way, the wood looks like parawood (wood from old rubber trees), a nice wood often used in manufacturing.

-- Leroy

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