Epoxy table tops

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Project by grosa posted 01-29-2011 01:11 AM 6263 views 9 times favorited 21 comments Add to Favorites Watch

These table tops are made from two layer of 3/4”plywood with a vinyl wallpaper in the field and a 1” x 1 1/2” Maple edge. A two part epoxy was pored and spread on the top and edges. This project was for a customer at Prestige Casework.

-- Have a great day.

21 comments so far

View degoose's profile


7255 posts in 3831 days

#1 posted 01-29-2011 01:20 AM


-- Don't drink and use power tools @

View Jeff's profile


116 posts in 3391 days

#2 posted 01-29-2011 01:56 AM

Looks very nice! A couple of questions for you:

Was it a really slow set epoxy that had time to level itself after you spread it with your hands?


The epoxies I have used are really noxious, did you have some non-offensive product that you didn’t need a respirator?

I like the wet look, and this would be great for a high use table for sure.

-- Jeff

View grosa's profile


1005 posts in 3305 days

#3 posted 01-29-2011 03:00 AM

Thank you degoose
Jeff yes, yes, The way it looks wet is the way it looks dry. It takes 24 hrs to harden.

-- Have a great day.

View Dan Hux's profile

Dan Hux

577 posts in 3851 days

#4 posted 01-29-2011 03:13 AM

nice table tops,,look great

-- Dan Hux,,,,Raleigh, NC

View shipwright's profile


8355 posts in 3274 days

#5 posted 01-29-2011 06:22 AM

Hey man, Nice Finish. You really gotta love the many things epoxy is good at. I used to use so much of it that I had a friend who used to kid me that I had a glass of it every morning when I got up. Those table tops will last forever.
Just a question. Are they for indoors or if not did you add mica powder or some UV protection?

Nice work.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View grosa's profile


1005 posts in 3305 days

#6 posted 01-29-2011 06:56 AM

shipwright, they are for indoor use. Thanks.

-- Have a great day.

View Ken90712's profile


17706 posts in 3665 days

#7 posted 01-29-2011 12:05 PM

Great work, I was wondering what type of Epoxy you used? After you spread it out with your hands is it self leveling? What did you do about the bottom and edges as well? Any info you could tell me would be a great help in me understanding this process for future use.

Thx in advance, Ken

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View xml's profile


10 posts in 4033 days

#8 posted 01-29-2011 01:04 PM

Beautiful work! What was the process for rubbing these out? Oh and which type of epoxy would you recommend for indoor use?


View Oldwest's profile


86 posts in 3280 days

#9 posted 01-29-2011 01:23 PM

Great Job, love the work. Can you tell us the MFG of the epoxy and the part number, I would like to try this myself.

Thanks, Mark

-- Anyone who isn’t totally confused just doesn’t understand the situation.

View grosa's profile


1005 posts in 3305 days

#10 posted 01-29-2011 03:41 PM

The name of the epoxy is called “WHITE SIDE” I will get the web sight and post it. It is a 2 part mix. When you buy the gallon set ( $80 ) you get a gallon of epoxy and a gallon of hardener. Ideal working temp. is 70 to 77. There is very little oder you don’t need a respirator. It is self leveling. It is a 1 to 1 mix. When mixing, you need to do everything in slow motion so you do not get bubbles in the mix. Don’t pour the material directly into the bucket, you will get bubbles that way. use the side of the bucket as a ramp. Put your mixing paddle in slowly and mix at a low speed, make sure your paddle stays under the mix so it don’t grab any air and cause bubbles. Big bubbles you can get out at the end, It’s the very small ones that will mess you up. After spreading the top and edges slowly use a propane torch to get all the bubbles out. Keep the torch about 12” away and move side to side quickly as if you were spraying. The heat thins the material allowing the bubbles to rise and pop. when the material gets tacky use a tong depressor and scrap the drips off the bottom of the table. If you wait to long you will have to wait till it drys and sand them off. I hope this helps. It is allot easier than it sounds. I have been using this epoxy for 10 yrs. it works great. Good luck.

-- Have a great day.

View jsegs's profile


21 posts in 3268 days

#11 posted 01-29-2011 07:06 PM

I’ve always been interested in using epoxy as a finishing product. I have only ever used it as an adhesive or to “patch” small holes (as a filler).

Do you think this same product would work as a finish on say a clock or something decorative?

Thanks in advance and the tables look great btw.

View Vince's profile


1201 posts in 3905 days

#12 posted 01-29-2011 07:09 PM

Good info thanks and great looking tables.

-- Vince

View grosa's profile


1005 posts in 3305 days

#13 posted 01-29-2011 07:28 PM

Jsegs, I don’t think epoxy adhesive is as clear as epoxy resin. I might be wrong.

-- Have a great day.

View WoodJitsu's profile


49 posts in 3269 days

#14 posted 01-29-2011 08:05 PM

Thanks for posting this, I’ve always been curious about epoxy tabletop finishes

-- Family, Friends, Jiu Jitsu, Woodworking. Order varies daily!

View Ken90712's profile


17706 posts in 3665 days

#15 posted 01-29-2011 10:24 PM

Great Answer, Thank-you. Your tips will make it so much easier when I try this. Information like this really helps expanding our capabilities as woodworkers. Do they have one that would work for an outside tabletop under a patio? It would still get sun so I would need to protect it.

Thx agian great job!

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

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