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DVD Holder

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Project by MJCD posted 11-22-2019 11:44 PM 264 views 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I guess I’m doing something wrong… getting landscape pictures…

DVD Holder
6 years ago my daughter asked me to build a DVD Holder for her. At that time, I had a design in mind, and she liked its execution – I posted this to both LJs and WWW around Sept. 2014. Anyone interested in design and construction details can scroll through my Project Gallery, on these forums, and get the primary details… certainly, any and all questions and queries are welcome.
Move the clock forward, and we are in the age of Netflix and Prime Video, and several other movie streaming services. However, as a family we purchase movies that we like.
The original DVD Holder design stores about 110 dvd ‘boxes’, and some number larger than that of the box-less variety. She’s run-out of space, and asked for a second holder.
Having just finished a Hard Maple & Rhodesian Teak chair, I had sufficient shop cut-offs to make this piece.
Design
It seems that ever since I met Hal Taylor (of rocking chair fame), I’ve moved completely away from traditional casework. Other than working through his detailed rocking chair process, the DVD Holder (2014) was one of my first contemporary designs.
The Holder is dominated by three main parts (2 identical sides and the back), with a common arc (0.75” over 64”), a top and bottom cap (these share a common width, with the bottom having a deeper depth; and a Top and Bottom cap – these are held separate from the 3 sides by 6 tenons, each… an attempt to create a ‘floating’ appearance. The matching arcs tend to soften the visual weight – the intend is to draw the eye and the mind’s-eye to the negative space (between the maple pieces). The dark wood inlay, in both the shelves and main pieces, is an attempt to provide a subtle counterpoint to the blond maple.
Brass pins and clips serve to hold 6 of the 8 shelves, with the remaining 2 shelves glued into both the sides and back dados – the back of these 2 shelves is M&T’d in two places into the back piece to add racking strength, and ensure that the back piece (64” x 8” x 0.375”) doesn’t warp along the way.
Things that add flavor to the build…
This piece requires attention to sequence… that is, with all of the arcs, you quickly lose square reference surfaces: precise alignment across 3 pieces of the shelf holes (clips and pins) and the 2 fixed shelf dados requires equally precise layout and execution.
The tenons and dados need to be protected from applied finish, for subsequent glue-up. I apply both Zinnser Sealcoat (via cloth) and Deft Waterborne Acrylic (3 coats, via HVLP spray) to all surfaces. The tenons, their mortises, and dado surfaces need to be taped prior to finishing.
Making inlay troughs – I centered the wood on my table saw blade, and cut a 1.0” deep trough in each of the 3 side pieces and Top & Bottom caps; and cut a 0.25” trough in the shelving billet (a long piece, not yet cut into individual shelves). The right & left sides, as 2 Caps are 0.75” material, and I endeavored to cut a 0.25” width trough – I couldn’t use my router table to get the 1.0” depth.
Making the inlay material was a Pain! I purged my drum sander – a 1st generation Performax – last year, and this is the first time I could have used it. I purged the machine, as it wa frustrating to keep in alignment, and it kept burning one half of work, and missing the other half. I opted to use a Gripper to push material against my Jet disk sander.
Final Thoughts
My schedule pulls me in many directions – this is one project where you want to get in the shop, focus, finish, and move-on. Continuity is important.
I’m gaining confidence in my spray finishing – the Deft and Fuji spray finishing process seems to be working well.

I look forward to your questions and comments. Please feel free to borrow any design ideas…
MJCD





4 comments so far

View torus's profile

torus

365 posts in 975 days


#1 posted 11-23-2019 12:46 AM

I like the design a lot!

How it is attached to the bottom pedestal? May be one more picture?

PS never hold your phone in “portrait” mode when making pictures!

-- "It's getting better..." - put this on my RIP stone!

View MJCD's profile

MJCD

601 posts in 2933 days


#2 posted 11-23-2019 02:48 AM

torus… thanks for the advice. I’m more of a flip-phone kinda guy…

The Top & Bottom caps each have 6 tenons which span the distance between them and the 3 sides – the exposed portion is 10mm (0.40”). In 3 of the pictures, you can see the exposed portion of the Top tenons (2 on each side bridging the distance); the Bottom has 6 tenons, as well. The one ‘gotcha’ is that the mortises and tenons must be identical for the unit to stand perpendicular – if you have one mortise that is too short, or a tenon that is too long, the unit will not clamshell (between the Top & Bottom pieces) flat.

I use Festool Dominos for most of my joinery, and I’ve become comfortable placing Dominos freehand – certainly, a drill press and a chisel will get you there, as well.

Thanks for the question.
MJCD

View MJCD's profile

MJCD

601 posts in 2933 days


#3 posted 11-23-2019 03:02 AM

One of the construction details is that the shape of each shelf is unique:

The depth is dependent upon where it is placed along the sides’ arc – shelf #1 & #8 are the deepest, while shelves #4 & #5 are the most shallow; and,
the negative space formed by the back of the sides and the back, itself (you have two arcs moving relative to each other, creating a larger gap as you get toward the middle of the shelf) – the sides of each shelf back is bandsawn to interest at the arcs’ edge – this is tough to explain, in words. Looking close at picture #4 shows this.
MJCD

View torus's profile

torus

365 posts in 975 days


#4 posted 11-23-2019 04:35 PM

thanks!

-- "It's getting better..." - put this on my RIP stone!

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