Project Information
This is a Sungkahan or game board for Sungka, a game played in the Philippines and elsewhere. I had seen some made here on Lumberjocks and I was making some custom spade bits so I thought I'd see if I could make some for this game. It is played with 98 shells, stones or beads and I'll have to buy some before I put this board up for sale.
I had this piece of 1 1/2" mahogany which would have been perfect except for the end holes. The 14 smaller holes are 2 1/2" wide and 1 1/4" deep but the big holes are 3 1/2" wide and had to be 1 3/4" deep so I glued in two thick mahogany bushings to get the depth without blowing through the bottom.
It is 9 1/4" wide and 29" long and finished with Danish oil and satin poly.
I started out with shallow hoes with forstner bits to get the locations and then i just centered the spade bits on the holes to bore them to depth. I had to do them in the vertical mill with the table locked in both directions because these cutters are wicked! They had to be sharpened often because the only tool steel I had was O1 and torch hardened and it is not the best for cutters. When I got to the big holes I had the shoot water on the wood to cool it.
Below are some shots of the spade bits and the sanding blocks I turned to power sand the holes after cutting.
Cheers, Jim
I had this piece of 1 1/2" mahogany which would have been perfect except for the end holes. The 14 smaller holes are 2 1/2" wide and 1 1/4" deep but the big holes are 3 1/2" wide and had to be 1 3/4" deep so I glued in two thick mahogany bushings to get the depth without blowing through the bottom.
It is 9 1/4" wide and 29" long and finished with Danish oil and satin poly.
I started out with shallow hoes with forstner bits to get the locations and then i just centered the spade bits on the holes to bore them to depth. I had to do them in the vertical mill with the table locked in both directions because these cutters are wicked! They had to be sharpened often because the only tool steel I had was O1 and torch hardened and it is not the best for cutters. When I got to the big holes I had the shoot water on the wood to cool it.
Below are some shots of the spade bits and the sanding blocks I turned to power sand the holes after cutting.
Cheers, Jim