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Large Segment Bowl

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Project by Peteybadboy posted 07-29-2019 10:40 AM 397 views 0 times favorited 11 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Large Segment Bowl
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The bowl is 12 1/2” dia by 5” tall. I have to find or build a clamp system to center the rings while clamping.

Thanks for looking.

-- Petey





11 comments so far

View oldrivers's profile

oldrivers

1789 posts in 2044 days


#1 posted 07-29-2019 11:01 AM

Beautiful bowl, you did a great job.

-- Soli Deo gloria!

View ohwoodeye's profile

ohwoodeye

2223 posts in 3631 days


#2 posted 07-29-2019 11:07 AM

Looks really good. Love the higher gloss.

-- "Fine Woodworking" is the name given to a project that takes 3 times longer than normal to finish because you used hand tools instead of power tools. ----Mike, Waukesha, WI

View Andre's profile

Andre

2746 posts in 2284 days


#3 posted 07-29-2019 02:53 PM

Bloodwood and Maple I assume? turned out nice, are you making your own calculations, cutting charts? Think I could use some sort of alignment clamps as well before going to the larger stuff.

-- Lifting one end of the plank.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3593 posts in 1052 days


#4 posted 07-29-2019 03:31 PM

I like Frank Howarth videos. He’s a pretty smart guy, and comes up with some good ideas, even if he turns them into Cluster…. ahhh Bombs a lot of the time by wayyyyyy overthinking things, and he’s a fool to use that CNC. He wants to put it into everything. Forget that most woodworkers don’t have one.

So this video is a great thought, at least the basic idea is.

I think he could have stopped at the base, the rod through it, and just drop the circles onto the rod, and wing nutted them down. Keeping in mind Titebond only suggests a couple of hundred #’s of pressure are needed for any of their glues. I think Bessey, and their killer Revo’s at 1500# make folks think they need that much.

Absolute worst case is you use a regular nut, and a wrench to make it tight enough to get even squeeze out.

-- Think safe, be safe

View recycle1943's profile

recycle1943

3176 posts in 2100 days


#5 posted 07-29-2019 05:54 PM

Good looking bowl Petey

regarding clamping your rings I used my cnc (Delta Unisaw) and cut a 13” SQUARE block of cherry and just for the heck of it I used my cnc again (delta unisaw) and cut a slot in the middle of eack end and glued a strip of pine in it for a little more stability.
got my cnc (drill press) out again and with a forstner drilled a hole in the center large enough to accept a 3/8” washer then finished the hole with a 3/8” bit. put a nut and washer on a piece of all thread then thru the board and screwed it into the nut on the under side. Tightened up the top nut making sure everything was flush on the bottom and put my rings on one at a time while applying glue to each ring with the top ring being the bottom of the bowl/vase/vessel or whatever it is you are glueing. Then comes the quick lock speed knob, tighten it down and wait over night.

forgot to mention, I can’t afford a CNC nor do I want one so I use conventional tools

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View moke's profile

moke

1410 posts in 3254 days


#6 posted 07-29-2019 06:00 PM

Awesome bowl and thanks for the tip recycle 1943!!!!

-- Mike

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

3593 posts in 1052 days


#7 posted 07-29-2019 06:58 PM

Got me laughing Dick.

I have a General 350 CNC, it sux because it only tilts to the right. I’m sure it would make me a much better CNC’r if it tilted both ways. :-)

I think you built just what I described, cept you put on big honkin knobs. Why didn’t I think of them?

-- Think safe, be safe

View Peteybadboy's profile

Peteybadboy

1005 posts in 2427 days


#8 posted 07-29-2019 10:10 PM

I enjoy this site. I will read again tomorrow in detail. thanks for the comments so far.

-- Petey

View recycle1943's profile

recycle1943

3176 posts in 2100 days


#9 posted 07-29-2019 11:03 PM



Got me laughing Dick.

I have a General 350 CNC, it sux because it only tilts to the right. I m sure it would make me a much better CNC r if it tilted both ways. :-)

I think you built just what I described, cept you put on big honkin knobs. Why didn t I think of them?

- therealSteveN


Thanks George — I’ve been using that set up for as long as I’ve been making bowls but the only place I can find the quick lock speed knob is at the RM web site but they do work.
and Petey, seriously look at this way, it could really help you.

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

View Peteybadboy's profile

Peteybadboy

1005 posts in 2427 days


#10 posted 07-30-2019 09:54 AM

Andre, I use a manual method to size my segments (rings). I use a incra 5000 sled to make perfect segments. i.e. so sanding. I am also looking at the “Stomper with the Longworth attachment.

-- Petey

View socrbent's profile

socrbent

877 posts in 2747 days


#11 posted 07-30-2019 04:41 PM

Here is another way to clamp up rings as you add them – Do it on your lathe. Cut a circle out of a large piece of thick MDF, locate center (drill small hole thru so center is marked on both sides) , and draw many different sized circles on one side.

Use circles to locate a ring on your mdf circle and affix with double sided tape. Hint: only use 3 small pieces of tape to avoid trouble separating ring from MDF later.

At this point I dry mount ring with MDF on lathe with the current portion of bowl is mounted and mark the new ring where it contacts last ring so you know where to add glue.

Remove, apply glue and remount using tailstock to apply pressure.

Allow to dry, then separate the MDF.

Negative – your lathe is tied up waiting on each ring to dry.
Positives – Cheap and you can rough turn as you add rings making access to inside bottom easy.

Addendum – You can use the MDF circle and sheet sandpaper to flatten the last ring prior to adding a new ring. This means I only flatten one side of a new ring prior to glue up. Although I do get the non-glue side close to flat so the MDF applies even pressure.

-- socrbent Ohio

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