Scroll Saw Cabinet

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Project by tyvekboy posted 12-12-2010 11:42 PM 7126 views 8 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Dec 13, 2010

This project will be of interest to those owning a DeWalt or Delta 20” Scroll Saw. When I got mine, I immediately saw a need for some place to store all the little saw blades, user’s manual and other stuff related to the scroll saw. So I designed this (PIC 1) Scroll Saw Cabinet.

For those that own this saw know that the frame starts wide at the bottom and narrows at the top. The problem in constructing this cabinet was that I couldn’t have straight sides. The method I used was to build each tier individually. The following picture will show it better.

This was the bottom, widest, tier. After each tier was glued up, starting at the top, the next wider tier was screwed to the one above it. Notice the screws in this tier slant a little towards the outside to catch the side of the previous tier above it.

After the 4 tiers were screwed together, the bottom of the cabinet that has 2 ears (at the back) and a leveler (at the front) was screwed to the bottom tier. The ears help to keep the back of the cabinet from moving from side to side. It is also used as a point to attach the clamp as explained later.

In PIC 2 is what the cabinet carcass looks like upside down.

The outside dimensions of the cabinet carcass is 20 inches long. The outside dimensions of each tier (starting at the top) is 5-1/2, 6-1/2, 7-1/2 and 8-1/2 inches wide. Each tier outside dimension is 4 inches high. The carcass was constructed out of 3/4 inch plywood.

Owners of this scroll saw knows that the scroll saw is setup to tilt forward for ease of use and that is why the leveler on the front of the cabinet was necessary. The leveler (PIC 3) makes the drawers level. This photo shows the underside of the leveler. Notice the 2 semi-circular notches. These notches clears the bolts that are part of the stand. I also extended the lever beyond the front of the cabinet to serve as a foot rest. I don’t know if this will work but I thought of adding it anyway. The foot rest slants downward.

Another problem with this carcass is that to be able to tilt it level, a recess needs to be cut (PIC 4) so that the frame does not prevent the carcass to tilt up. I discovered this after I had built the carcass and didn’t allow for it when I first designed this cabinet. How to cut the recess?

The following picture shows the router template jig that I made to help guild the flush cut bit that I used to cut the recess.

The jig consists of a piece of 3/4 inch plywood for the base and 2 tapered ramps. The ramps are about 10 inches long and about 2 inches wide. The notches of the jig was cut with a bandsaw and sanded smooth with a spindle sander. The ramps were attached with double sided carpet tape. The base was attached to the cabinet in a similar manner. A trim router was used to cut the recess in stages. Note that the thinner part of the ramp faces the front of the cabinet carcass since that is the side that need a deeper recess.

The recess starts about 5-3/4 inches from the back of the cabinet and is about 6 inches long. The recess is bout 5/8 inches wide.

The drawer fronts (PIC 5) were made of scraps of cherry. The drawer pulls were also made out of cherry and glued to the tops of each drawer front.

The drawer box sides and ends are made with 1/2 inch plywood and drawer bottoms are 1/4 inch plywood glued to the bottom of each box. The drawer fronts are glued to the boxes. The drawer fronts were made about 3/4 inches wider than the the drawer sides and 3/4 inches above the top of the drawer boxes to hide the carcass. The only exception is the front for drawer #2 which is only wider at the sides see PIC 5.

Notice that the drawers shown are the top drawers that are really narrow. I intend to store the various blades here. Rather that make this one deep drawer, I split this tier into 2 drawers. The top drawer’s bottom extends beyond the sides of the drawer by about 1/4 inch and slides in a 3/8 inch deep by 1/4 inche stopped dado cut into the sides of the top tier of the carcass. If you make this, be sure to cut the dado before you glue up the top tier.

The cabinet is attached to the stand by a clamp (PIC 6) that is screwed to the 2 ears at the rear of the cabinet.

I’m planning to use pen display tubes (Rockler part number 31200) to store scroll saw blades in the top two drawers unless I come up with another container solution. Any one have another way to store saw blades?

Hope this description gives you scroll saw users some idea of how you can build one for your scrollsaw.

-- Tyvekboy -- Marietta, GA ………….. one can never be too organized

6 comments so far

View StumpyNubs's profile


7854 posts in 4262 days

#1 posted 12-13-2010 01:12 AM

Oh ny goodness! Has scroll girl seen this…

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View Brandon's profile


4382 posts in 4413 days

#2 posted 12-13-2010 01:23 AM

What an excellent use of space! Great job.

-- "hold fast to that which is good"

View jerrells's profile


918 posts in 4346 days

#3 posted 12-13-2010 04:20 AM

I will start planning one and hope to start on it after the first of the year. Excellant post. Thanks

-- Just learning the craft my Lord and Savior Jesus Christ practiced.

View Bluepine38's profile


3393 posts in 4547 days

#4 posted 12-13-2010 04:21 PM

Great idea, I had just put some rare earth magnets on a plastic box to keep the blades handy on that bottom
brace. Your drawers are a much more elegant idea and gives a lot more room. Good looking drawers.

-- As ever, Gus-the 83 yr young apprentice carpenter

View SteveMI's profile


1175 posts in 4756 days

#5 posted 12-13-2010 05:08 PM

I got the 788 in the summer without the “special” stand, but am going to repeat your drawers on my generic table.


-- Being sawdust or first surface awe are dependent on the tool kerf

View Tnirish's profile


4 posts in 1868 days

#6 posted 04-16-2017 01:37 PM

I could definitely use this

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