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Adjustable Outfeed table

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Project by Phil B. posted 01-24-2019 02:22 PM 1434 views 5 times favorited 14 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I had originally planned on widening my 40 year old well used 4×4 table, which has four 2×4 metal drawers, to accomodate a new top that would raise and lower with a scissor jack. I even purchased the tracks months ago !
Since I needed a temporary outfeed for my new 4’ taper sled, I fashioned a lip on the old Craftsman to accept a leaf from the new table to the saw to cover the motor…...well….now this is all I need and actually more versatile.
I still need the assembly table in the lower position for my router table, planer and small jointer, so the outfeed board in the parallel position still gives me that space as well as assembly area, without having to raise and lower the table every time I need to use the saw. The outfeed board is simply supported by a movable board supported by the new Lee Valley Platform Saddles. I move the board to the next set of dog holes for the perpendicular position.
The parallel position works fine for the taper sled, but I will turn it to the perpendicular positions for ripping long stock and jointing edges on rough stock. If I do need to remove it with the 2 wing nut bolts, for more assembly space, it lays tightly on my table saw. The board slides across the lip and locks in place to allow safe outfeed of various widths of stock. I had to trim down my dust door, but it still pulls on and off with the earth magnets.
I upgraded my old steel fence allowing an 8” high board with T track, that slides on and locks in. The lower fence also has a track for the featherboard. The top allows storage of my Micro jig slitters and push block, tape measure, pencils and mini square. I just attached metal brackets and a board to hold the fence below, as I was constantly laying it on something else when I needed the saw as a table. The miter fence is above held on by 1” earth magnets….I just pull on the handle and it slides out.
I tested out the sled last night cutting back slats, and love the outfeed.

Thanks for looking,

Phil

-- Phil, http://www.plansinwood.com DWG files at https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheBarleyHarvest?section_id=13930514&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3





14 comments so far

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

10862 posts in 1643 days


#1 posted 01-24-2019 02:25 PM

Nicely done Phil! Very functional :-)

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View swirt's profile

swirt

4210 posts in 3476 days


#2 posted 01-24-2019 02:27 PM

Very clever solution Phil.

-- Galootish log blog, http://www.timberframe-tools.com

View Phil B.'s profile

Phil B.

185 posts in 1758 days


#3 posted 01-24-2019 02:29 PM

Thanks Kenny…. that sucker is waxed better than the floors in the house :)

-- Phil, http://www.plansinwood.com DWG files at https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheBarleyHarvest?section_id=13930514&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3

View EMagic's profile

EMagic

10 posts in 1747 days


#4 posted 01-24-2019 06:05 PM

Excellent work! I need to do that to my rig also.

-- Eddie, Irmo, SC

View Phil B.'s profile

Phil B.

185 posts in 1758 days


#5 posted 01-24-2019 07:46 PM



Excellent work! I need to do that to my rig also.

- EMagic


Thanks Eddie….best for the small shop this way I think !

-- Phil, http://www.plansinwood.com DWG files at https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheBarleyHarvest?section_id=13930514&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3

View Richard's profile

Richard

11307 posts in 3537 days


#6 posted 01-24-2019 11:56 PM

Very Nice & Well Done Phil!

-- Richard (Ontario, CANADA)

View Phil B.'s profile

Phil B.

185 posts in 1758 days


#7 posted 01-25-2019 04:38 AM


Very Nice & Well Done Phil!

- Magnum


Thank you fellow Canuck :)

-- Phil, http://www.plansinwood.com DWG files at https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheBarleyHarvest?section_id=13930514&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3

View Monte Milanuk's profile

Monte Milanuk

13 posts in 4197 days


#8 posted 01-26-2019 10:24 PM

Great idea, Phil!

I’ve been waffling about a TS outfeed table for a long time. I know I need one, just could never make up my mind how I wanted it to be situated. Things are additionally complicated by the fact that I don’t have the room to leave it setup most of the time.

Being able to go from the short/wide orientation to the long config just made things click! Now to spend a little quality time in SketchUp to make sure I don’t screw things up too badly, and then make some sawdust!

View Phil B.'s profile

Phil B.

185 posts in 1758 days


#9 posted 01-27-2019 04:01 AM

Thanks Monte…. in the last t few days I have left it on the parallel position and it really is a great addition to the work flow using it to hold the cut parts. It could also be hinged if you have a direct drive TS.

-- Phil, http://www.plansinwood.com DWG files at https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheBarleyHarvest?section_id=13930514&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3

View Monte Milanuk's profile

Monte Milanuk

13 posts in 4197 days


#10 posted 01-27-2019 02:41 PM


It could also be hinged

Okay… so maybe I’m being a bit slower than normal, but how exactly would you hinge something like this, which is supposed to be oriented either width-wise for cross-cuts, or length-wise for rips?

View Phil B.'s profile

Phil B.

185 posts in 1758 days


#11 posted 01-27-2019 06:23 PM


It could also be hinged

Okay… so maybe I m being a bit slower than normal, but how exactly would you hinge something like this, which is supposed to be oriented either width-wise for cross-cuts, or length-wise for rips?

- Monte Milanuk


Use the same process I did by bolting on a 90 degree lip edge and elongate the holes for the bolts which gives you vertical adjustment. Rip a 2” strip off the length of the outfeed board after routing your grooves. attach a 3’ piano hinge to the underside, so when not in use, the parallel position board will hang down at the back of the TS. If you don’t have a table like mine to rest it on, just use your roller stands or build supports at the correct height.
You would still turn the board for ripping, and the hinged strip would still lay flat on the main support on the TS.

Phil

-- Phil, http://www.plansinwood.com DWG files at https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheBarleyHarvest?section_id=13930514&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3

View Monte Milanuk's profile

Monte Milanuk

13 posts in 4197 days


#12 posted 01-27-2019 06:52 PM

Guess I’m still not seeing it. I understand how I’d normally attach a short/wide table via a hinge, but making it detachable / reversible is where I’m not following you.

What I’d had in mind was a support board attached to the bottom of the rail, with a couple of raised strips to make a notch or lip for the close end of the table to nest into, whether in the short configuration, long orientation, or stowed (hanging). The legs would probably be bolt-on with threaded inserts and knobs w/ studs, and stow on the underside of the table when it’s hanging.

View Phil B.'s profile

Phil B.

185 posts in 1758 days


#13 posted 01-27-2019 07:55 PM

Here area few pics… first you see the long slots on the support that allows the perpendicular position to slide.

The second shows the closer hole for the perpendicular position and the far one lines up with the long slot

The last pic shows a T track laying where I would rip the board and add the piano hinge underneath.

-- Phil, http://www.plansinwood.com DWG files at https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheBarleyHarvest?section_id=13930514&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3

View Monte Milanuk's profile

Monte Milanuk

13 posts in 4197 days


#14 posted 01-27-2019 08:35 PM

I think I figured out where the disconnect between what you’re saying and what I’m picturing in my head is… for some reason I thought your table had a little more going on underneath… the usual open torsion box / frame type structure. That’s what I’d planned on having under mine, for a bit of rigidity (ideally I want to put some dog holes in it and use it as a small assembly table as well) and I couldn’t fathom what you meant by ‘put a hinge on it’ along just one edge.

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