Hickory and cherry box

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Project by awsum55 posted 11-27-2018 07:31 PM 3196 views 4 times favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The feet on this box were a little scary to create. I’m always anxious with very small parts going through my table saw so I try to do whatever I can to do things in the right order while the board is oversized. Sometimes using my hands instead of a push stick seems safer. I like all of my fingers so I’m super careful, but there are some procedures that can seem more dangerous when you don’t have direct contact with your fingers.

-- John D, OP, KS

18 comments so far

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4705 posts in 2472 days

#1 posted 11-27-2018 08:13 PM

Good looking box John, I especially like that you used the knots in the hickory. Trying to figure the feet, do they have a shelf for the box to sit on ?

-- Dick, Malvern Ohio - my biggest fear is that when I die, my wife sells my toys for what I told her I paid for them

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12 posts in 668 days

#2 posted 11-27-2018 09:33 PM

I think you did an amazing job, John. I can relate about being careful with small cuts. I use a small crosscut sled whenever I can to cut out small pieces. Keep at it!

-- Alfonso, Olympia, Washington

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11309 posts in 3883 days

#3 posted 11-27-2018 10:50 PM

Very Nice Project John & Well Done!

-- Richard (Ontario, CANADA)

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42 posts in 777 days

#4 posted 11-27-2018 11:17 PM

Love the box, and especially like that you used the splined miter joints rather than box joints. It adds a very nice look. The grain and color of the hickory and cherry are very complementary. I don’t think that combo would have occurred to me.

-- MCaro, St. Charles, MO

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6252 posts in 1424 days

#5 posted 11-28-2018 01:01 AM

Nice looking box John. I’m with Dick though trying to figure out how you did the feet. Not sure, when you are also talking about small parts? Were you just referring to the angled cuts? Or did you make the shelf using the TS? If so I would like to better understand that. To cut the thin splines a 6” wide true sqared board with a small hook can carry your stock through the blade to make perfect straight cut splines without getting your fangers anywhere near the blade.

Your comfort zone is yours alone, but on those legs I can think of several ways to control them through a TS cut if you were using it to cut the angle. Just remember if you mess up using a jig, it’s the jig that goes to the hospital, or the trash bin. Using your fingers really sux in the after a bad outcome period, if that is all the blade has to hit.

-- Think safe, be safe

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138 posts in 2639 days

#6 posted 11-28-2018 02:18 AM

Great box.

I am with the OP, I am still trying to figure out a way cut feet like this without a pucker factor that could function as a secondary dust collection device

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5466 posts in 3822 days

#7 posted 11-28-2018 02:35 AM

Very nice elements to this box.

-- Galootish log blog,

View awsum55's profile


776 posts in 1358 days

#8 posted 11-28-2018 07:27 AM

Thanks for the nice comments guys. When I referred to scary cuts I was talking about the feet. It’s hard to see in the pics, but they are mitered and this prototype I made forced me to come up with a safer way to cut the halves. They were made on the table saw and I don’t remember exactly what I did, but I know the actual feet were done more safely and easier than the first one.

-- John D, OP, KS

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Dave Polaschek

5852 posts in 1432 days

#9 posted 11-28-2018 09:47 AM

That’s a good-looking box, John.

-- Dave - Santa Fe

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29 posts in 795 days

#10 posted 11-28-2018 03:49 PM

Nice box. Yes, those small parts can be tricky. Me being a function-biased woodworker, may I ask what is the intended use for this box?

-- Jerrybox-Boxes Unlimited

View awsum55's profile


776 posts in 1358 days

#11 posted 11-28-2018 04:27 PM

Thanks Dave.

Jerry, I probably should have a purpose in mind but I just build them to keep myself busy.

-- John D, OP, KS

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1083 posts in 1490 days

#12 posted 11-28-2018 05:06 PM

Those feet are tricky, I made a similar set. My process didn’t seem dangerous at all:
Started with a square board, routed two long 90-degree V-grooves on the RT, then cut the board into 4 pieces.
each peice had a grooved part and a solid part. I then cleaned the groove and shaped the solid portion with chisels:

-- I'd rather be a hammer than a nail

View awsum55's profile


776 posts in 1358 days

#13 posted 11-28-2018 07:45 PM

Thanks John, that is a great looking box. I looked at your link and I never thought about using the router. I guess half the battle is knowing what tool to use to make the procedure as safe as you can.

-- John D, OP, KS

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56 posts in 725 days

#14 posted 11-28-2018 08:21 PM

Any reason you wouldn’t use a hand saw?

-- Klinkman, hand tool enthusiast

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340 posts in 2277 days

#15 posted 11-29-2018 12:52 PM

Nice box. As for the safety factor, as a person in possession of only 9 2/3 fingers, allow me to suggest you arrive at a safer solution. Mine might be to:
1. Route or saw the notch out of a length of stock,
2. In the each end of the stock, glue a block into the notch for the solid part of the leg.
3. Taper the ends of the length on a taper sled, then
4. Cut off the tapered ends to the desired length, giving you two legs.
5. Repeat steps 2, 3 & 4 for the other two legs.

Because the fill block are on the inside, on a tight-grained, consistent-coloured wood like walnut, it won’t be noticeable. There are other ways to approach this, but the key, IMHO, is to work with a longer piece during the shaping phase and then cut to length. You might waste a bit of wood, but trust me, the alternative risk isn’t worth it.

Take it all for what it’s worth.

-- "As are the things we make, so are we ourselves." - Lin Yutang

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