Project Information
Over the past week or so I have posted a couple of other 10" saws I have restored. This one completes the trilogy of small tenon saws I had, which I bought to restore. This one is. Tyzak sons and Turner No 13B, 10" closed tote back saw with unknown PPI as they were cruelly shaped (despite looking at first glance to be in good condition)
The Tyzak Co originated from 1812 in Sheffield, England although I suspect this saw dates early/mid 20th Century (rough guesstimate)
The image above shows the saw in the condition I bought it , well almost. I Had begun to clean the plate before I took the first photograph. I paid £5.00 for It on a well known auction site…..........the price of a beer!
Unless the saw is particularly valuable I prefer to strip the saw down to see what I a man faced with, identify any faults or flaws etc, it also makes cleaning easier. Some prefer to retain the original patina, I prefer mine clean and shiny.
At some point someone had attempted to sharpen the teeth, it looks like they have filed the teeth backwards?
Rather than waster time trying to alter the shape of the teeth I decided to joint the plate and remove the existing damaged teeth. Much simpler.
Thanks again to the Norsewoodsmith for allowing me to use his tooth sharpening template. I decided on 14ppi in this instance. As it is a back saw. Still fine enough to cut tight joinery yet able to handle heavier cuts than say a standard dovetail saw
I use a small multi tool with a thin kerf cutting disc to form the start of the teeth, quicker and less expensive than using expensive saw files. If you decide to use this method please be careful, your eyes will be close to the level of the disc and a fair amount of sparks are generated when cutting the relief points
I filed my usual progressive rip cut pattern, of 30 rake on the first 14 teeth, 15 degrees on the next 14 then a 5 degree rake on the remaining teeth. I have found this ensures a smooth start to the cut yet rips aggressively.
The handle was a little uncomfortable for my hand, so I reshaped the top and bottom horns For comfort. The image shows the horns digging into he heel of my hand when gripping. Well worth the time to reshape. I think it also looks better too.
With the tote reshaped I applied some stain and finish to the handle then set it aside for a few day to harden off prior to applying a couple of coats of paste was. All that remained was to assemble the saw and make some test cuts.
Shown with the other two saws restorations posted earlier in the week.
Thanks for looking.
David
The Tyzak Co originated from 1812 in Sheffield, England although I suspect this saw dates early/mid 20th Century (rough guesstimate)
The image above shows the saw in the condition I bought it , well almost. I Had begun to clean the plate before I took the first photograph. I paid £5.00 for It on a well known auction site…..........the price of a beer!
Unless the saw is particularly valuable I prefer to strip the saw down to see what I a man faced with, identify any faults or flaws etc, it also makes cleaning easier. Some prefer to retain the original patina, I prefer mine clean and shiny.
At some point someone had attempted to sharpen the teeth, it looks like they have filed the teeth backwards?
Rather than waster time trying to alter the shape of the teeth I decided to joint the plate and remove the existing damaged teeth. Much simpler.
Thanks again to the Norsewoodsmith for allowing me to use his tooth sharpening template. I decided on 14ppi in this instance. As it is a back saw. Still fine enough to cut tight joinery yet able to handle heavier cuts than say a standard dovetail saw
I use a small multi tool with a thin kerf cutting disc to form the start of the teeth, quicker and less expensive than using expensive saw files. If you decide to use this method please be careful, your eyes will be close to the level of the disc and a fair amount of sparks are generated when cutting the relief points
I filed my usual progressive rip cut pattern, of 30 rake on the first 14 teeth, 15 degrees on the next 14 then a 5 degree rake on the remaining teeth. I have found this ensures a smooth start to the cut yet rips aggressively.
The handle was a little uncomfortable for my hand, so I reshaped the top and bottom horns For comfort. The image shows the horns digging into he heel of my hand when gripping. Well worth the time to reshape. I think it also looks better too.
With the tote reshaped I applied some stain and finish to the handle then set it aside for a few day to harden off prior to applying a couple of coats of paste was. All that remained was to assemble the saw and make some test cuts.
Shown with the other two saws restorations posted earlier in the week.
Thanks for looking.
David