Project Information
My goals with my outfeed table were to:
(1) - Support the center of gravity of a full sheet of plywood behind the blade, i.e. the plywood won't tip backward once it clears the blade.
(2) - Have static / stationary support behind the saw for everyday use, including miter tracks so I can use a crosscut sled, miter gauge, etc.
(3) - Fold out of the way when not in use, such that the saw isn't a whole lot bigger than before.
(4) - Be sturdy and not look like a hacked together mess, without being unnecessarily bulky or overbuilt.
(5) - Not require excessive modification or disassembly of the saw.
Table measurements:
Stationary section - 54" W x 14" D x 1.5" thick
Folding section - 48" W x 31" L x 1.5" thick (clears the floor by ~1.5" when folded)
Parts:
Piano hinge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J0WE3C
Lockable table leg brackets - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VTJZHS6
The main table sections are built from some of the laminate scrap I snagged when my office was undergoing a remodel. I reinforced the outer ~3" with a second layer of plywood using glue and brads, then edgebanded the whole thing with ~3/4" thick poplar. The width of the folding section was determined mostly by the width of scraps I had on-hand, and at 31" long it clears the ground by ~1.5" when folded.
The brackets that attach the saw to the table are fabbed from 3/4" plywood, poplar, glue and screws. I bolted the lower bracket to the saw using 1/4"-20 bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. I temporarily attached, shimmed and leveled the upper table and brackets to the saw, then held the rough-cut support gussets in place. With everything in place I marked the hole locations on the gussets, drilled them, and bolted everything in place.
I used a 48" piano hinge to connect the stationary and folding sections. I secured the hinge to the table sections using 1.25" panhead (Kreg) screws into every other mounting hole. the connection is very solid without a hint of flex or play or sag.
I found the leg brackets on amazon and they work well in this application. They lock securely in either position, but have a release lever that is easy to actuate by feel (i.e. without having to bend over to look at it). The legs are solid poplar, and are small enough to be lightweight but sturdy enough that I feel completely comfortable not taking it easy on them. I've piled sheets of plywood on the table, sat on it, etc. and nothing moves or flexes.
I included the second pic to show how it looks without the folding section, in case anyone is interested in that configuration. I actually used the saw this way for a month or two until I got around to finishing the folding section, and it was great aside from being too short to handle full sheets.
If anyone has any questions on this, just let me know!
Jim
(1) - Support the center of gravity of a full sheet of plywood behind the blade, i.e. the plywood won't tip backward once it clears the blade.
(2) - Have static / stationary support behind the saw for everyday use, including miter tracks so I can use a crosscut sled, miter gauge, etc.
(3) - Fold out of the way when not in use, such that the saw isn't a whole lot bigger than before.
(4) - Be sturdy and not look like a hacked together mess, without being unnecessarily bulky or overbuilt.
(5) - Not require excessive modification or disassembly of the saw.
Table measurements:
Stationary section - 54" W x 14" D x 1.5" thick
Folding section - 48" W x 31" L x 1.5" thick (clears the floor by ~1.5" when folded)
Parts:
Piano hinge - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J0WE3C
Lockable table leg brackets - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VTJZHS6
The main table sections are built from some of the laminate scrap I snagged when my office was undergoing a remodel. I reinforced the outer ~3" with a second layer of plywood using glue and brads, then edgebanded the whole thing with ~3/4" thick poplar. The width of the folding section was determined mostly by the width of scraps I had on-hand, and at 31" long it clears the ground by ~1.5" when folded.
The brackets that attach the saw to the table are fabbed from 3/4" plywood, poplar, glue and screws. I bolted the lower bracket to the saw using 1/4"-20 bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. I temporarily attached, shimmed and leveled the upper table and brackets to the saw, then held the rough-cut support gussets in place. With everything in place I marked the hole locations on the gussets, drilled them, and bolted everything in place.
I used a 48" piano hinge to connect the stationary and folding sections. I secured the hinge to the table sections using 1.25" panhead (Kreg) screws into every other mounting hole. the connection is very solid without a hint of flex or play or sag.
I found the leg brackets on amazon and they work well in this application. They lock securely in either position, but have a release lever that is easy to actuate by feel (i.e. without having to bend over to look at it). The legs are solid poplar, and are small enough to be lightweight but sturdy enough that I feel completely comfortable not taking it easy on them. I've piled sheets of plywood on the table, sat on it, etc. and nothing moves or flexes.
I included the second pic to show how it looks without the folding section, in case anyone is interested in that configuration. I actually used the saw this way for a month or two until I got around to finishing the folding section, and it was great aside from being too short to handle full sheets.
If anyone has any questions on this, just let me know!
Jim