Walnut and Birdseye Maple Console Table

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Project by greenwoodbob posted 11-17-2010 10:17 PM 4041 views 11 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Here is a piece I recently finished on a “spec” basis in my free time between client jobs. This is all 8/4” thick wood (Walnut and Birdseye Maple) and the main pieces are 11” deep. Overall length is 56”.

The Maple has a bit of a live edge along both sides, and some good heartwood color. This wood is a full 8/4”, so cutting the 45 degree beveled edge was a challenge. I used my Festool TS 75 and it did a nice job, but it couldn’t have cut a thicker piece.

This is finished with Osmo Polyx Oil and hand rubbed paste wax.

One of my next projects may be up to 3” deep (Jatoba), and I’m not sure how I’m going to bevel cut that (any thoughts are welcome!!!).


-- Bob Card

17 comments so far

View dakremer's profile


2742 posts in 3544 days

#1 posted 11-17-2010 10:30 PM

thats one cool lookin table! Love the simple design and wood choices! Great job!

-- Hey you dang woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!!!!

View Dwain's profile


596 posts in 4312 days

#2 posted 11-17-2010 10:38 PM

I really like that mitre. Outstanding work.

-- When you earnestly believe you can compensate for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there is no end to what you CAN'T do

View SPHinTampa's profile


567 posts in 4138 days

#3 posted 11-17-2010 11:04 PM

Have you considered using a hand plane for the bevel on your next project? .. not sure if the bevel is needed for looks or a joint. If it is for a joint, my skills would not be be accurate enough.

Otherwise I would use angled carrier on my bandsaw.

-- Shawn, I ask in order to learn

View dub560's profile


615 posts in 3366 days

#4 posted 11-17-2010 11:08 PM

very nice

-- Life is enjoyable especially when you borrow from people

View AaronK's profile


1508 posts in 3917 days

#5 posted 11-17-2010 11:12 PM

beautiful! i absolutely love the contrast of that raw looking maple and modernistic minimalism of the design.

how did you join it all up though? Is anything reinforcing that miter? did you use mortise and tenon for the maple shelf? what about the vertical maple piece – are those real through tenons or did you “cheat” by using cut off caps?

View rivergirl's profile


3201 posts in 3291 days

#6 posted 11-17-2010 11:35 PM

Interesting design! Nice grain/color. I would have to use it as a bookshelf. :)

-- Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter? Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."

View ellen35's profile


2742 posts in 3885 days

#7 posted 11-17-2010 11:51 PM

Very nice. That 45 looks perfect! The maple has wonderful figuring in it and really adds to the piece.

-- "Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good." Voltaire

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4168 posts in 3309 days

#8 posted 11-18-2010 12:04 AM

That is Clever and very nice.


-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View cwdance1's profile


1159 posts in 3711 days

#9 posted 11-18-2010 12:29 AM

Very nice design. great work.

View Doer's profile


22 posts in 3276 days

#10 posted 11-18-2010 12:58 AM

Very nice miter on a nice walnut board. For your next project, do you have a radial arm saw? If you have the room, they are really nice for doing wide and thick miters and absolutely wonderful for crosscut dadoes and you don’t have to take the bade off your table-saw.

Doer….who owns two radial arm saws

View greenwoodbob's profile


20 posts in 3695 days

#11 posted 11-18-2010 01:00 AM

Thanks everyone for the nice comments. Shawn, the angle carrier is an interesting idea, but the wood I’m using is quite long (usually 48” – 72” or more), so I don’t know if I could control it well enough. The hand plane also probably wouldn’t work, because this is needed for the joint. But the idea of an angle carrier gives me another idea…I may be able to use a jig with a router. I could make a 45 degree jig/sled, clamp this on the end to be mitered, and then use my bottom cleaning bit to make a nice flat cut.

Aaron, I cheated a little bit. Loose tenons were used to support the miter joint, as well as all other joints, including the vertical piece. The vertical is cut from a continuous piece of wood, so it does appear to pierce the piece all the way through, but actuallly the only thing piercing through the horizontals are my 1/2” loose tenons.

I made my own loose tenons with scrap white oak, and routed the mortise with a 1/2” spiral bit. I made an MDF jig leaving enough room for the bearing guide. Since all of the mortises are hidden, I simply fastened the jig in place with countersunk screws. That allowed me to have a very secure base for my router. This was especially helpful on the 45 degree pieces, where clamping or using 2 sided tape is more challenging.

-- Bob Card

View jaedwards575's profile


90 posts in 3510 days

#12 posted 11-18-2010 06:30 AM

Did i miss the miter joint? Be honest, you were able to find a walnut tree growing at a perfect 90 degree, didnt you? But seriously I really cant see the outside joint line. fine work.

-- Aaron Possom Town, TN

View AaronK's profile


1508 posts in 3917 days

#13 posted 11-18-2010 02:59 PM

cool, thanks for the info :-) it’s not really cheating at all – thats probably exactly how I would do it.

do you mean that you fastened the jig to the workpiece with screws? thats a pretty good idea that people probably dont think of much when it comes to routing mortises.

View greenwoodbob's profile


20 posts in 3695 days

#14 posted 11-18-2010 04:41 PM

jaedwards – Thanks. Makes me feel great to hear you say that. Miters – especially long, thick ones – are tough. If you do know of any 90 degree trees, let me know, I’ll be happy to buy the wood!

Aaron – yes, I fastened the jig by screwing it directly onto the piece. I haven’t figured out how to load pictures into these posts (ok, I’m too lazy to learn!), but if you’d like me to send an email with a picture attached, I’d be happy to do so. One of the big advantages to screwing it on is that if you need to go back later to touch up the mortise, you can easily place the jig back exactly as it was – the screw holes are already in place. Of course, this works only on joints where the mortise is hidden, otherwise the screw holes would be visible and would need to be treated somehow. It also provides a rock solid way to hold the jig in place, which is especially helpful when mortising the ends of the piece, or the 45 degree beveled edge where clamping the jig securely can be a little difficult.

-- Bob Card

View SPHinTampa's profile


567 posts in 4138 days

#15 posted 11-18-2010 04:49 PM

For a very long piece – if you can hide the screw holes – I would screw a 1×2 batten parallel to the bevel on the underside of the slab, tilt my bandsaw to 45 deg and run the batten against the edge of the bandsaw table.

This also works on a radial arm saw (actually I got this ideal from Wally Kunkle’s Mr. Sawdust book), but you would need a 12” RAS with no blade stiffener to cut a 3” slab.

-- Shawn, I ask in order to learn

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