Project by Ron Aylor | posted 04-02-2018 09:50 PM | 3496 views | 9 times favorited | 26 comments | ![]() |
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26 comments so far
Joe
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553 posts in 2093 days
#1 posted 04-02-2018 10:01 PM
That’s a tool for a skilled woodworker. I’ll look forward to seeing the side table you build. Thanks for inspiring and sharing
-- CurleyJoe, "You only learn from your mistakes"
theoldfart
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12452 posts in 3457 days
#2 posted 04-02-2018 10:30 PM
Ron, I like it. Thanks for posting.
-- "With every tool obtained, there is another that is needed" DonW ( Kevin )
Ron Aylor
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2649 posts in 1653 days
#3 posted 04-02-2018 10:45 PM
Thanks, Joe. The side table is on the drawing board. I should start the build in a few weeks.
Thank you, Kevin!
Mr_Pink
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197 posts in 1378 days
#4 posted 04-02-2018 10:52 PM
That’s an interesting idea. Would you just insert wedges when you wanted to cut angled shoulders?
Dave Polaschek
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6817 posts in 1588 days
#5 posted 04-02-2018 10:58 PM
Ahh, so there it is. Now you’ve got me wondering if I could somehow use the same or similar saw as the miter jack saw I’ve been pondering. I was thinking I’d make that a flush-cutting saw, but no reason I couldn’t make it like your saw, I think. If you see smoke coming out my ears, it’s because I’ve stripped a gear thinking hard about new tools. ;-)
-- Dave - Santa Fe
Ron Aylor
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2649 posts in 1653 days
#6 posted 04-02-2018 11:27 PM
No wedges needed … just angle the workpiece. Depending on the angle needed you might have to continue the saw cut on two sides with a dovetail saw as the blade only extends 9/16” on this particular tenon saw, but the shoulder will have been established on the other two sides for easy alignment.
I think this saw design would work great with a miter jack. Not only work great but NOT scratch up the face of the miter jack like a flush cut saw would. Go for it, Dave!
Dave Polaschek
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6817 posts in 1588 days
#7 posted 04-02-2018 11:46 PM
I think you’ve talked me into it, Ron. Just have to finish up this box I’m taking a night off from tonight first. Shipping deadline for the swap is tax day, and I might have to get my plane till done first so I have some bench space to work on. But soon.
-- Dave - Santa Fe
Oldtool
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3164 posts in 3197 days
#8 posted 04-03-2018 12:11 AM
Ron,
Nice work here. This is very interesting and I like the concept of operation. Did you see an example of this somewhere? Looks like it does a really good job on the shoulders, square in all directions (cheek to shoulder and shoulder to the sides) and around the perimeter of the piece.
How did you make the cheeks? by saw? I’ve seen videos of individuals who chop the cheeks close, then detail by paring with chisel.
The cheeks are the part that gives me the most trouble, seems like it won’t go, then won’t go, then all of a sudden too loose.
-- "I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The point is to bring them the real facts." - Abraham Lincoln
doubleDD
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10131 posts in 3049 days
#9 posted 04-03-2018 12:33 AM
I like this jig. I would say you done yourself proud. Anxiously waiting to see what you build with it.
-- Dave, Downers Grove, Il. -------- When you run out of ideas, start building your dreams.
theoldfart
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12452 posts in 3457 days
#10 posted 04-03-2018 12:37 AM
I’m not sure how well it would work with a mitre jack. You would have to reposition the work to use a mitre plane effectively.
-- "With every tool obtained, there is another that is needed" DonW ( Kevin )
metolius
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296 posts in 1736 days
#11 posted 04-03-2018 03:09 AM
That is dandy.
I would have loved to watch your work: threading with a pole lathe!
-- derek / oregon
Steve_In_MN
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29 posts in 1062 days
#12 posted 04-03-2018 03:25 AM
Very impressive and well done! Thanks for sharing.
-- Steve, Minneapolis area
Andre
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4273 posts in 2812 days
#13 posted 04-03-2018 05:46 AM
Me thinks I like this idea! Perhaps make the blade cut depth adjustable?
-- Lifting one end of the plank.
Dave Polaschek
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6817 posts in 1588 days
#14 posted 04-03-2018 09:06 AM
I’m not sure either, Kevin. But I think it’ll be easier for me to build than a flush cut miter jack saw, and if it doesn’t work, I should be able to take he wooden sole off and replace it with either metal or a thin piece of UHMW plastic to slide on the face of the miter jack. And if I put slots in the blade, as opposed to holes, I could make it with an adjustable depth of cut, as Andre suggests. I’ll be having dinner with my metal-working buddy later this week, and I’ll bounce ideas off of him, too.
It might end up not being very good at anything, but I think it has potential, and I’ll probably give it a try. Again, thanks for the idea and inspiration, Ron.
-- Dave - Santa Fe
Ron Aylor
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2649 posts in 1653 days
#15 posted 04-03-2018 12:09 PM
Thanks, Tom. This has been around for a long time. There is an illustration by Aldren Watson in Country Furniture (1974) of a miter box very similar to this clamp. In 2009 Stephen Shepherd discusses this clamp in his Full Chisel Blog, and subsequently built his Tenon Clamp. There are many variations of this device floating around. I really like Stephen Shepherd’s discussion comparing this clamp to the Moxon vise.
EDIT: Tom, I form the cheeks via a dovetail or back saw and tweak with a chisel to fit.
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