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Shop-made Dust Collection Upgrade for Ridgid Contractor Tablesaw

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Project by ChuckM posted 08-27-2010 11:09 PM 17835 views 10 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The factory built 2” dust collection dust hood clogs often and the 2” hose doesn’t allow the use of the full capacity of the 1.5 HP dust collector. So, I enclosed the underside chamber with 1/4” MDF sheets and a 4” dia. hole dust hood and the back and front with MDF and magnet sheet respectively. The dust collection capability has improved dramatically. A vid clip showing the improved suction is at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3-GIlJmFeY

-- The time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted





9 comments so far

View Routerisstillmyname's profile

Routerisstillmyname

763 posts in 4790 days


#1 posted 08-28-2010 02:23 AM

Super Job. this saw sure makes a lot of dust. top, bottom, sides..you name it. What a coincidence. That is on my list of to do this weekend.

-- Router è ancora il mio nome.

View douglbe's profile

douglbe

375 posts in 5241 days


#2 posted 08-28-2010 05:12 AM

Great idea for a great saw. Some day I’ll get around to doing something with mine. Thanks for the ideas.

-- Doug, Reed City, Michigan

View BradJohnson's profile

BradJohnson

3 posts in 4313 days


#3 posted 08-28-2010 05:23 AM

I also closed my Ridgid 3650 table saw in this week. The pics of my table saw look almost identical. Good Job on yours.

View JCantin's profile

JCantin

185 posts in 4693 days


#4 posted 08-28-2010 01:36 PM

What happens when you tilt the blade? It looks like your motor and belt are locked in at 90 degrees by the back panels?

View ChuckM's profile

ChuckM

666 posts in 4947 days


#5 posted 08-28-2010 04:42 PM

Hi JCantin,

Thanks for your question. The back cover (which has two panels – the outer one is pinned to the inside one) is removable. To hold the inside panel to the tablesaw back frame, I wedge a small block between the inside panel and the motor mounting plate. If I need to use the blade guard, I remove the outside panel and install the blade guard. For operation that requires the titling of the blade (45 degree cuts, etc.), I remove both panels. In that situation, the dust collection force will be reduced. Since most of my cuts are done at a right angle, I chose this simpler back cover design over a complicated approach in which the back cover consists of various movable small parts because it took much less time to complete the upgrade (see below for another reason).

If you tilt your tablsaw a lot, I suggest you take a more complicated back cover design. If one day I do find a frequent use of my saw at non-90 degrees, I could cut out a cover from magnet sheet/card board to the right shape to cover the back. Making two dedicated covers for 45 degree / 22.5 degree tilts would probably deal with most of the tilt cuts I’d do.

Short of a cabinet or hybrid tablesaw, this shop-made upgrade has proved quite an improvement to the dust control in my shop. Even when I used the zero clearance insert (always with a splitter – since I don’t use the blade guard a lot) and cut MDF and hardwood scraps during my test cuts, the dust left on the tablesaw top was minimal and none on the floor below the tablesaw. Previously, dust could be seen flying when MDF was cut and after every woodworking session (if the hood or hose was clogged), I had about 1/5 garbage-size bag of dust to collect from the floor. Enough was enough!

I spent about two hours to outfit this upgrade. The most time consuming part was to size right and install the frame and the dust hood in the compartment/chamber. You’d need to design and make them in parts and put them together after they are placed inside the chamber. One single piece of hood and frame would be too big to go in (unless you disassemble part of the saw to make room for the one piece to slid in).

A side note: I’ve kept the dust hood side cover that came with the original design as I found it helpful in diverting saw dust into the 4” hose opening below. Please also note that the opening is not placed in the center of the tablesaw but a little towards one side and to the back so it’s in line with the flow of the saw dust from the rotating blade. If your tablesaw isn’t Ridgid, you could use cardboard to make some templates and test the best configuration for your make/model.

-- The time I enjoy wasting is not time wasted

View William's profile

William

9950 posts in 4123 days


#6 posted 09-01-2010 05:28 AM

I applaud all who are able to control the dust in their shop. Myself, I gave up long time ago. I just let the dust hit the floor now. The heavy chips such as from my planer or router go get seperated according to species of wood. Some goes to garbage. Some, like cedar, goes to local farmers that use it in animal stalls to protect the animals feet. The finer sawdust gets collected into buckets under my layout table. Finer sawdust works better than any floor dry you can by commercially. It soaks up water, grease, oil, about anything. On the rare occasion I fill all my buckets, there are a few local mechanics that I take it to.

-- http://wddsrfinewoodworks.blogspot.com/

View Ken90712's profile

Ken90712

18081 posts in 4469 days


#7 posted 09-02-2010 05:04 PM

Nice work! Have the same saw. Might have to consider this. Thx

-- Ken, "Everyday above ground is a good day!"

View Bricofleur's profile

Bricofleur

1482 posts in 4474 days


#8 posted 09-10-2010 11:20 PM

Nice from you showing a good way how to protect our lungs!

Best,

Serge

http://atelierdubricoleur.spaces.live.com

-- Learn from yesterday, work today and enjoy success tomorrow. -- http://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com

View firecycle's profile

firecycle

15 posts in 4140 days


#9 posted 11-13-2012 09:30 PM

i did the same thing to my saw….getting ready for a saw upgrade to either the delta or saw stop

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