Cypress Tables

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Project by ezal posted 12-17-2017 05:25 PM 1059 views 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch

The wife’s Cypress tables her dad made about 50 years a go. Yes the big one came to me in 3 parts. The finish was cracking and blistered. I managed to get things back together, striped and now finished sanded with 220grit.

So my issue here is how to finish! I want the grain to show and not hide it with a dark stain. The end look should be lighter than it started. Because this is all end grain has me scratching my head.

6 comments so far

View icemanhank's profile


547 posts in 3316 days

#1 posted 12-17-2017 08:35 PM

Wow great looking tables, as far as the finish goes I would hesitate to steer you in case I was wrong but my tables I normally finish with just a marine varnish called Norglass Satin with no stain, I just let the wood speak for itself.


Good luck my friend it looks fantastic.

Merry Christmas Dave from Aus

-- "These are my principles. And if you don't like them, I have others." ... Cheers, David from Sydney Australia

View tommasomade's profile


6 posts in 1758 days

#2 posted 12-17-2017 08:48 PM

Such a cool piece of wood!
I’m a big fan of the Tried & True brand, both the varnish oil and the original wood finish.
They use a non-chemical method to make polymerized linseed oil, which means it’s like commercially available boiled linseed oil, but without the chemical (carinogenic) driers and other stuff. It cures beautifully, and is safe to use, even for food contact. There aren’t any real fumes to speak of either, and it seems to clean up with soap and water. If you want a natural-look, natural-lustre finish, this is a great way to get it.

-- -- Tommaso -- --

View pottz's profile


18736 posts in 2144 days

#3 posted 12-18-2017 01:24 AM

well as far as finish my tried and true go to is a maloof oil finish which is basically 1/3 linseed oil 1/3 raw tung oil and 1/3 semigloss urethane varnish.i love it because it doesn’t mask the real feel and look of the wood.and welcome to lumber jocks.

-- working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.

View swirt's profile


6340 posts in 4131 days

#4 posted 12-18-2017 03:20 AM

If you’ve got the time, it is hard to beat many coats of pure tung oil.

-- Galootish log blog,

View ezal's profile


9 posts in 1321 days

#5 posted 12-18-2017 03:52 PM

I have made several thing be for this, full bedroom set, scrap book cabinet and my winner an 8 player poker table.
For some reason with where this came from and how old, I can’t just cut more wood then start over.
I have used Minwax stains and top coats up to now. I do have some chunks from the legs to test on. I put some honey oak stain on one pc. after the per-stain / conditioner and it still sucked it in like a sponge.

This is why I like the idea of only a top coat and no stain. BUT I still want that little bit of yellow or brown that old time varnish gives with time and the protection of a polyurethane. I have tried a tung oil before, did something wrong striped and started over.

So I think of my self as a beginner, never took classes, learned from my dad and grandfather.
My work shop is small and simple. In fact I still use the same jig saw of grandpa’s from 1946 Delta

Some good looking tables there.
project 88068 for the table top and then 235866 for the glass leg. looks like it is hanging in air. COOL

thanks for the welcome to lumber jocks
I have been looking and learning for some time now. Didn’t know what to do so had to make a profile and start asking.

View Ivan's profile


16898 posts in 4027 days

#6 posted 12-19-2017 08:06 AM

What a piece!

-- Ivan, Croatia, Wooddicted

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