Japanese style shooting plane (dai-kanna)

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Project by WAPY posted 07-10-2017 12:52 PM 3341 views 3 times favorited 7 comments Add to Favorites Watch

the idea of making a japanese plane hitted my mind long time ago. After having carefully learned how japanese steel is obtained (either white and blue types) and what components it includes, I discovered that our old car suspensions, those made as a crossbow, contain almost the same components. What makes a great difference is their cost ! a whole suspension made of 4 armonic steel bows can be purchased for 10 euros and it’s a whole 10 Kg of excellent steel!

The body is made with white well seasoned oak, really hard to work because it chips very easily, but after a pretty long session chiseling it reveals how strong can be in holding the blade. Very impressive.
Well, for the remaining aspects pics tell themselves the story.
The blade has been cutted under water (big messy job!) and then honed with the scary-sanding paper method. It turned out a good bevel and very sharp edge; it seems, after a five minutes planing, that the hardness of steel has been preserved and it keeps the sharpness. I’ll see on the time if it really lasts.
I’ve also scraped the sole following the japanes style and technique and I’ve to admit it makes the difference; the plane slides on the wood really smooth and with the minimum effort, considering its length.
Finally, it is really tricky to set up properly but as soon as you reach the good point it works really great.

-- the good woodworker feels what the tree wanted to become

7 comments so far

View waho6o9's profile


9055 posts in 3795 days

#1 posted 07-10-2017 03:15 PM

Excellent work on making a fine plane WAPY.

View WayneC's profile


14359 posts in 5316 days

#2 posted 07-10-2017 03:21 PM

Lovely plane.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View helluvawreck's profile


32122 posts in 4085 days

#3 posted 07-10-2017 05:04 PM

This is a very nice shop-made plane. Beautiful work!

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View kaerlighedsbamsen's profile


1375 posts in 2932 days

#4 posted 07-10-2017 07:05 PM

Great looking plane. Like that you made the blade of car springs. Steel that have been hardened for springs are not realy that hard and you would probably get better result if you reharden the blade. Not difficult to do, ask Google
Thank you for sharing!

-- "Do or Do not. There is no try." - Yoda

View bobasaurus's profile


3734 posts in 4403 days

#5 posted 07-10-2017 11:44 PM

Looks that it will work great, I love that you used leaf spring stock. kaerlighedsbamsen is correct, spring tempering is done at about 600 to 900 deg F, where blade tempering is typically 400 deg F. It would require re-hardening and re-tempering to get the best edge retention. But it might work fine for your use as-is. Nice job chiseling out the openings for the blade, etc.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

View WAPY's profile


56 posts in 1545 days

#6 posted 07-11-2017 06:39 AM

thanks so much to everybody.
You guys might be right about re-tempering but I’m not equipped at all for this smithing jobs; that’s why I cutted the blade under cold water (facing a huge amount of water unto myself) but doing so at least the original temper was not weakened.
Anyway, I agree with you, the hardness is lower in springs steel compared to japanese, I’ll tell you the tale after a couple of months using it!
Now it is worth of a good layer of linseed oil and go !
Thanks to all again.

-- the good woodworker feels what the tree wanted to become

View WAPY's profile


56 posts in 1545 days

#7 posted 07-11-2017 09:49 AM

Just to add some more info, the spring steel here in Italy (as well as in EU) is in the range of 52-56 HRC hardness, certainly not 62 like japanese blue paper steel, but I think it is usable as well.

Following comments above from kaerlighedsbamsen and bobasaurus I’ve also looked for a supplement of information and just read the spring steel is not keen to be re-tempered. Our in EU is tempered at 430°C (about 800°F) in air when hardening process goes to 800°C (1500°F) in oil.

-- the good woodworker feels what the tree wanted to become

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